Thursday, 6 August 2009

My Plans!!!

The Route setting at Ratho has got a bit lax these days... We plan to change that for good! It has been really difficult to get the time to set routes and boulders so don't get upset at us when there has been no new climbing in a while (we try our best). But hopefully now, that is all gonna change!!! Mhairi and I have been given hours every week to set now so there's gonna be a lot of turnover hopefully. My plan is to strip 1/5 of the bouldering every week so we get a good turnover of boulder problems lasting around 5 weeks for every problem. 1/5 of the bouldering will run as so:

Week 1: Barell Boulder
Week 2: Slab Boulder
Week 3: 45 Boulder
Week 4: 1/2 of the Boulder cave
Week 5: 1/2 of the Boulder cave

What do you think boulderers?

And 2 days a week we will strip route lines and set new fantastic routes of every grade!!!! At the moment we are working on the Justice Wall but we are moving further right. We are hoping to strip the slab wall very soon too and with that we will open up a variety of new fantastically shaped entreprise holds which in my opinion are being wasted on 3's and 4's with no obvious movement to them (they are just a line of holds basically).

Today I spent every spare minute I had stripping the back wall of the Boulder cave and setting on it. There still needs to be a few more easier problems within the V1-V5 range set but there are a bunch of classics set on it for rour enjoyment right now.

1) White (R) = V1
2) White (L) = V5
3) Pink = V3
4) Blue = V7/8
5) Green = V6/E6
6) Grey = V4

And the problems on the Mantel shelf board side are:

1) Yellow (mantel) = V3
2) Pink = V2
3) White (mantel) = V6
4) White = V0
5) Red = V5
6) Purple = V4
7) Green = V6
8) Grey = V5
9) Blue = V2



  1. Can you remember to give some thought to linking problems for traverses and circuits for training?

    Eleanor's Dad

  2. I think that the best wall for that use in Ratho is the "45" board in the boulder cave. That will always remain a circuit board so there will be plenty of new problem links on that as soon as we get that stripped! I'm keen to keep the screw on footholds we have on that for the added option of screw ons for feet which is always a good option for making boulder problems and circuits harder! The other boards don't really lend themselves that well for that kind of training...

    Thanks for the comment "Eleanors Dad" ; P

  3. It's good to hear that there is a plan for turning over new routes/problems on a regular basis. I haven't tried any of the boulder problems yet, but was climbing on the "Justice Wall" today (If the Justice Wall is what I think it is - any chance of a map desribing which walls are called what?!). Really good to have some more new stuff, to follow on from the technical work of "Zippy" a few weeks back!


  4. The justice wall refers to the panels where the pantarai sign is situated. It refers to thos 3 lines roughly where there always seems to be an abundance of high 7th grade routes.

    Get on the problems dude! You will love them. The next stage in route setting is for Tuesday when I'll be stripping and settin the right hand side of the justice wall, left of the turtle back feature. PSYCHED!!!!


  5. Hey Robbie,
    Any chance of clearing the blue 6A+ and Grey 6B lines of the huge tower face. Both good routes and have been up for a long time now. Selfish preference would be for a 6C and 6C+ with some interesting moves. Your routes always seem to get me thinking. Keep it up!