Monday, 3 August 2009

So today, Buz was on the Spider setting new routes! We have a brand new 6a+ White on the new comp wall (which is pretty amazing considering its all mega overhanging (Davy and Alan got up it so it can't be that hard ;P ). We have a brand new Red 7b on the Justice Wall (main Wall where the pantarai sign is). This route is awesomely crimpy but has some good jugs on it too for rest positions. Nice and pumpy... just what you want on that wall! I also did my Yellow on the same wall today which in my honest opinion was more like 7b+, all the moves are really cool, theres lots of variety in the movement, holds and angle which i reckon makes a damn good route! I also made the FA of my new 8a (Flash... if you can call it that after you set it?). I'm gonna name it "Crmpy Crimperson"... because of all the slopers of course (Joke). It really was a cool route, I think its maybe 7c+/8a but its really nice regardless. All the holds are really positive and all it requires in good endurance on small positive crimps and the ability to recover well on small open handed slopers (the best rest points are on smallish sloping holds). You should all get on it, I reckon 7b until the half way chain...
I also set two new problems in the Cave the other day, probably both about V5? They are both situated on the Pillar and have some seriously sick moves on them. The Blue has an amazing double dyno to two positve pinches and the white has an wicked double toe hook which you have to match your hands on as well to gain the final move....



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