Saturday, 1 August 2009

New Routes

Hey guys!

I got some time (first time in ages!!!) for some route setting on Friday! I stripped the main wall (where the Pantarai sign is, also known as the "Justice wall") and set a new yellow 7b (with some well cool moves on it) and a new Green 7c+/8a.

The yellow 7b makes good use of the featured panel to the start (watch for featured feet and hands at this point) as well as the overhang feature to the left of the Justice wall! It gradually gets harder towards the final moves where it thins out slightly and finishes with subtle movements on balancy ground with small features on either side for good foot placements! Make sure you have enough left to clip the chain!!!

The Green is currently not officially graded yet. It may be 8a but i'm not 100%. It has been set to hopefully replace the old terracotta that went up the same line. I set the route as a personal challenge. You will notice that the route has very small crimpy holds on it, and seems to be very endurancy without much rest. This is not my fortay and I usually prefer to set with bigger holds and more interesting technical moves that flow from side to side but setting this was going to be a challenge so I went for it! the route is straight up and nearly every hold is incut (but only slightly). It will be very difficult to get any form of rest on the entire route without crimping and apart from one foothold at the top, every hold you will use for your feet will also be used for your hands so make sure you look for those features and work on your highstepping because you'll need it. This will be the ultimate endurance workout for those working in the 7c and up region and I advice even those working in the grades below that to try the first half which will no doubt give your fingers a good test and may even work out a good 7b tick...

Happy Crankin' everyone!!!


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