Saturday, 15 August 2009

The cave

The past couple of weeks has been a great turnover for the Boulder cave, with new problems being set nearly every day, from V0 to V9 at the moment theres plenty to go at! Yesterday I had two and a half hours at the end of the day dedicated to setting and in that time managed to produce some more quality problems for your climbing pleasure. On the Slab by the office we have a new V4/5 Tan problem. It consists of a delicate start on sloping crimps to a high rock over and a double dyno slap to a positive sloper! WICKED! On the Pillar there's a new V5 Black problem. A fine and balancy arete heads into the jutting overhang roof with a finger jug and sloper round the lip, from here you can be technical and use some cunning toe hooks or be a beast and campus for the final hold (Not a jug really?). On the mantel shelf board there are two new problems! A technical and balancy arete (Tan V2) all the way to the top with some very challenging sequences... make sure those hands are on the right holds... And a new black V5 that traverses the mantel lip and into the mantelshelf itself. This should grade at around V5 but turning the lip of the overhang from the mantelself proved very tricky for me, maybe with some new beta It might be easier? Also on the back wall there is a new ripple V3 traverse and a new V6 Orange crimp fest cuortesy of Lisandro! On the v-board, I worked yet more problems onto it, a new V5 (White) heading up the prow with some very sneaky beta coming up on video after it's seen a bit more action. Finally, a new purple V2 and grey V1 as well. Watch the last move of the grey...

And now the 45 board has finally been reset! Buz and I had a long chat about how to reset it, should we set problems for people to lap or should we just cover the wall with holds like a normal circuit board. In the end we covered the wall with loads of different holds in different positions to provide every possible movement from every possible hold to provide the best training board for circuits and bouldering that we could manage. I think it turned out rather well. I'm going to go over all the grid numbers on the Y and X-axis of the board so that we can easily plot problems and circuits on it. For everyonese use there will be a folder with all the circuits and problems in it listed by grade and the public will have the opportunity to add to this if they like, although if you are adding to it, make sure it's a good one ; P

In my opinion this way of setting up the 45 board is the best. It's the way all major Walls have set their circuit boards and it's the way all the top climbers have their boards, so why not on the worlds largest climbing wall, should we not have a board luke this (if only it was a real 45 board).

Also, forgot to mention. Anyone who likes aretes? Try the new tan arĂȘte on the right hand side of the 45 board, there's no particular sequence, whatever works for you?

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