Thursday, 13 August 2009

Circuits? What are those?

Hey guys!

More news from the routesetting front. Soon to be stripped and set is the "45" board in the cave. A long awaited change is coming to fruition and soon we will have a brand new set of problem laps and circuits for your power-endurance pleasure. What is that you say? Power-Endurance? Power-Endurance is one of the most misunderstood form of climbing training. It is (in a very basic explanation) the transition between power and enurance and is an essential key to improving your overall performance on the rock. Primarily it is more essential for route climbers than boulderers although for those seeking longer and more sustained problems, theres no harm in training it. The best way to train it (personally) is by climbing circuits or doing problem reps (laps). The "45" board in the cave is the best wall for this at ratho and this is why we tailor all the problems on it to suit this specific type of training. Every problem on the board has a twin next to it. They are not always identical but they range around the same difficulty. As well as that there are also a few easier jug lines to allow easier downclimbing if necessary. The board is also fitted with loads of screw-ons if you wish to make it harder for yourself (use them for your feet). The problems vary in length from between 8 and 12 moves, coupled with downclimbing you can make a full up and down rep into a healthy 18 moves on average. I usually (if training on "45" board) will rep (up and down) on one colour and the move on to the next e.g.

1) Up Purple V6
2) Down Purple (Twin) V6
3) Up Tan V5
4) Down Tan (Twin) V5

That is a good set! And you should want to make your tailored to yuor specific needs my allowing it to be hard enough to make the final moves but not always complete it. Until you can safely complete every set every time, you should not increase the difficulty too much. Power endurance is very personal and it must be specific to you. I would class this training as circuits. You can also make your own circuits up using any holds (that is sometimes better). Problem Reps involve choosing a problem that you can finish (between 8 and 12 moves) and repping it 4 times max. On the final 2 reps you should be falling at the top. As soon as you can rep it seuccesfully every time you can change it. Why not simply tweak one of the holds in it to make it only a little harder? Each rep should include a one minute rest (it is essential to use a stopwatch otherwise the results become to scattered and varied.

When it comes to Power-Endurance, it is essential that you don't climb to total failure. Sessions should be short and sweet. At home ( my sessions last between an hour and two hours. Not long at all really and the sessions are always the same...

1) Warm up
2) 1st circuit (3 x sets)
3) 2nd circuit (3 x sets)
4) 3rd circuit (3 x sets)
5) Finish (maybe a beastmaker session depending on how i feel)

So why not try this for a while and see where it takes you? There is plenty of literature online about this and once you get stuck into it, its really quite fun.

Apart from all that training talk, I have also set two new routes on the main wall. There is a new giant pink jug fest (6a-6bish) and a new 7b/+ (blue) which is really wuite technical and sequncy on small holds and foot holds!

Go for it!!!


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