Wednesday, 28 October 2009

The Interview!!!

As a brand new feature to the Ratho blog, we have started video interviews with the ratho staff and regular climbing heroes.

Interview by Robbie Phillips and Natalie Berry!
Cameraman: Jonathan Field
Laughing in background: Neil Mcgeachy

To start of with we have Eddie "Irish beast" Barbour!!!


Name: Eddie Barbour
Age: 23
Place of origin: Ireland
Regular Climbing Wall: EICA: Ratho
Hardest Onsight: 8a, E6
Hardest Flash: 8a/+
Hardest Boulder: V
Hardest Redpoint:8b, E9/10
Occupation: Post Graduate PhD in something crazy like Physical mechanical and engineering or something like that?
Hobbies: Wind Surfing (sometimes more so than climbing!!!!)
Claim to fame: His constant crimping finger? Its nuts!

Thursday, 15 October 2009

NEW Boulder Problems and Routes (!!!)

The past couple of weeks has been pretty busy on the old route setting business and now that the leading ladder is coming up, we're seeing more top quality routes being set too! All the bouldering walls have been completely re-set and we have a brand new set of quality problems ranging from VB - V9! I would also like to introduce a new member to the routesetting team at ratho, the one, the only, Eddie "4 leaf clover" Barbour!!! Yer man Eddie has been signed up for routesetting now and he's already made his mark on the featured top-rope wall on the right hand side of the tower wall area!

Anyway, with the Leading ladder up on its way (which i'm hoping all you keen beans out there will be attending!), we've had red clad climbers hanging off the walls setting for the past two days and they'll be there again tomorrow. We are not using the new comp wall for this round and instead are making uses of the old comp wall which has been looking a little bare of late. Tonight our main man buz set a new 7b up through the roofs that looks positively crazy and the Argentinean Beast Lisandro was given the power (not that he ever needs any more) to set the 8a for the comp. Due to be completed tomorrow, its a stunning ripple line flowing through the two roofs and into the final steep arete! It looks sick!

For those boulderers out there wanting some hardcore problems to get them meat hooks stuck into, why not check out our new problems! This is a video of Lisandro Crushing my latest creation in the cave... V7!!! Please forgive my enthusiasm on the video, I was pretty psyched by this as everyone had told me it was impossible and that I had to change it ; P


Tuesday, 13 October 2009

Local Cragging

On Thursday Buzz, Jonny Stocking and Myself managed to grab a couple of hours at Bowden Doors before having to come in to Ratho the evening. Once we got over the initial gale force winds making every thing seem like E16, we went on to make our way along the crag enjoying 'mint' conditions and an almost deserted crag.

This was young Jonny's first trip to the crag and he was well psyched to tick off some of the classics. After a rather blustery warm up soloing some classics like 'Main Wall' HVS 5a, 'Viper' E1 6a, 'Canada Crack' HVS 5a,and Klondyke Wall E2 5b , Jonny decided to try a few of the trickier challenges on offer. He swiftly dispatched the Font 7a version of the left hand start to 'Transformer'. He then followed this up with a couple of impressive solo's - flashing 'His Eminence' E4 6a 'The Trial' E2 5c and 'Posioden Adventure' E4 6a.

Master Buzzard was also on good form managing to solo 'Posioden' and 'His eminence' as well. Both routes that he has had his eye on for a few years now.

Having recently moved to the Edinburgh. I am starting to see the benefits of living in the east. Having Northumberland close enough to consider it as a morning or evening crag before work is a definite plus point.

Putting EYS Training to Good use at the Crag.

After competing in the Edinburgh round of the European Youth Series (EYS), Edinburgh based climber - Ross Kirkland joined myself and Adam Hughes on a short trad trip to Northumberland and the Peak. Ross Kirkland is 16 years of age and has been performing well on the British Junior Competition circuit for well over 8 years now, achieving some great results along the way like 2nd place in 2008 Team Trials and 8th in his first ever Senior British Lead Climbing Championships. This consistency lead to his selection in 2008 to the British Junior Climbing Team, thus allowing him to go on and represent his country in international climbing competitions.

Away from competition, Ross's other main climbing passion is trad climbing and he had been looking forward to putting some of the fitness gained through training for the EYS to good use on the rock. It has to be said though that bouldering is not one of Ross's strengths and he was curious to see how he would cope on the short powerful styles of climb found in Northumberland and the peak.

He need not have worried, as he took every thing in his stride and ticked his way through a very impressive selection of routes over the three days. The trip started off with a day at Back Bowden climbing with other Ratho instructors Pamela, Martin and Ally. Ross swiftly warmed up on the 'Arches' HVS 5a, then went on to solo the short and crimpy wall of 'Pin-Up' E2 6a. Ross stated that he really enjoyed both of these climbs, but was keen to attempt something a bit more challenging. Time for 'Lost Cause' E4 6b, a safe but brutally powerful and committing County Classic! If I am to be honest I thought Ross would struggle with the powerful nature of this climb! How wrong could I have been, with Ross making swift work of flashing it and even stopping mid route to remove his sweater (poser!). This was Ross's first E4 and was climbed in great style. Adam also had a great day climbing the 'Tube Direct' E5 5c, 'Lost Cause' & 'Uncouth Youth' E4 6a, all of which, Ross seconded. Ross finished off the day seconding me up the crags classics of 'on the Verge' and 'Right to Reply', both of which he cruised.

The second day saw us descend on Frogatt, keen to keep up the momentum of the successful first day. Ross had decided that he wanted to spend the day getting in some lower grade mileage. So he started off with a swift on sight of 'Strapiombante' E1 5b. His ideas for the day soon changed when he sat watching myself and Adam flailing our way up the huber Classic 'Stapadictomy' E5 6b. Realising it was safe, Ross decided to strap it on and give it a go. After a valiant flash attempt Ross dispatched the route ground up in good controlled style. Bearing in mind this is the boys' first real trip to the grit, this is a phenomenal achievement. Especially when you consider that he climbed his first E3 in June earlier this year. Ross basked in his glory and chilled out seconding Adam and myself on routes for the rest of the day.

We were joined on the final day by trad wad Tony Stone. Ross opted on a more chilled out session. Spending the morning bouldering around and climbing easier routes up to a grade of HVS. He rounded off the day with some exciting spotting duties while Tony on sight soloed the classic Pebble Mill E5 6b. Followed by seconding Adam Hughes' impressive lead of the same route. Sadly I didn't enjoy the same pleasure, managing to turn in to a gibbering wreck on the same climb, when I couldn't reach the final break, resulting in a rather feeble opt out for a safety line, much to the amusement of young Rosco! I will never forget looking down in a panic to see young Rosco rolling around on his back in hysterics. Loving how supportive my climbing partners are!!!!!

I was truly humbled by just how well young Ross performed on the trip, to tick E5 ground up on his first real trip to the grit is good going. I am sure there will be more big trad ticks to come from this young lad in the future.

For more Pics check out Adam's Blog

Sunday, 4 October 2009

Local Talent – Glasgow Paul

I first met young Paul Williamson ('Glasgow Paul') around 5 years ago, when he came along to our Saturday BRYCS club. It was very apparent from day one that he already had 2 of the most important traits required to succeed in climbing – 1. a determination to push himself, and 2. mutant strong fingers!

Paul has progressed through the ranks as a climber over the last few years with some impressive results in regional, national and international competitions. Five years on he is very much established him self as one of the most talented and promising young climbers on the British Competition Circuit.

Paul's talents don't stop at just plastic pulling either. Ever since a very successful first outdoor climbing trip to Orpierre in 2006. He has gone on to tick some very impressive climbs throughout Scotland, Britain and Europe. He is now also very much established as a member of the 'west coast dumby squad' and is well on his way to maintaining the Dumbarton tradition of pushing Scottish bouldering standards forward to new levels. Just a pity he is a Celtic fan!

Achievements to date:
2009 Scottish Lead Climbing Championship
2009 Represented Britain in European Youth Series and the Youth World Cup
4th 2008 British Lead Climbing Championships
2008 Was awarded full team status on the British Climbing Team
Multiple F7c red-points in France and in the UK
7B+ on-sights in France and in the UK
V8 boulders in the UK

Future ambitions;
to climb in the Buttermilks in California
hopefully do some pretty hard boulder problems
to climb F8c one day (maybe at Dumbuck?)
to climb the Overlee project, (V very hard!?!)

Paul has recently been selected to represent Britain in the up and coming Kranj round of the European Youth Series. Good luck dude and get stuck in!