Local Talent - Eleanor Hopkins

I recently caught up with Callendar based climbing machine Eleanor Hopkins. This extremely talented young athlete is one of the most exciting prospects within British competition climbing at the moment. Even though she is still relatively new to the sport, she has worked hard and is now competing at the highest level. Eleanor recently won the British Team trials in youth c category (which she still has two full years left to compete in), beating an extremely experienced and competitive field on her way to doing so. It is also worth noting here that the final route in her category, which Eleanor came very close to on-sighting, was graded 7c/7c+. This bodes well for competing internationally in the future, as these are the kind of grades she will be coming up against in her category.

Keep an eye out for this talented young lady, as she has all the potential and professional approach to her training required to step up to the international stage. I'm just looking forward to 6 years down the line when she will start doing battle with her idol in the senior category! I think a certain climbing super star will be pretty nervous about that prospect!

How old are you and how long have you been climbing?

I’m 13 years old (14 in April) and have been climbing for 3 years this Christmas.

How did you get involved in climbing?

I first got involved in climbing at an October Kids Camp at Callander (near Stirling), I tried out the wall and I was hooked, So my dad learned to belay and I got my first pair of climbing shoes and harness at Christmas. I started to go about once a week but became a bit more serious when I joined The Young Explorers of Scotland climbing and activity group and then went to my first competition.

What made you want to try competition climbing?

The second round of YCS wall was at my local wall so I went along, not really knowing what to expect and came 2nd, a couple of weeks later I went the third round and overall came 3rd. That meant that I had qualified for the British Final held at Ratho and from then on started to do more and more competitions and got more involved in the sport.

You recently won the British Team Trials/selection Competition, How did this feel?

It is the most amazing feeling when you know you have climbed to the best of your ability and all your hard work has paid of! I am very pleased and happy with my result and would like to thank my coaches for all the help they gave me.

You train more professionally than any climber I have seen. Could you give us a brief run down of how you train?

I train 6 times a week with one rest day:

Monday: At home, strength circuits and rowing machine circuits

Tuesday: Climbing at Ratho

Wednesday: At home, strength circuits

Thursday: Climbing on home board

Friday: Rest day

Saturday: Strength and Conditioning Training at Herriot Watt University. Climbing at Ratho

Sunday: Climbing at Ratho

What would you say your strengths are?

Crimps, steep walls and training.

What would you say your weaknesses are?

Very powerful moves, slopers and dynos (but getting better!).

Have you climbed outdoors?

Only a couple times, twice at Malham and once at Benny Begg, on my first trip to Malham I managed to red-point my first route ever, Frankenstein 7a+.

Which competitor inspires you most from the British Junior competition circuit?

Natalie Berry

Which competitor inspires you most from international competition circuit?

Natalie Berry

What are your future ambitions (short term & long term)?

My short term ambitions are to do more outdoor climbing and compete at the EYS and Worlds, and my long term ambition is to qualify for the final in an EYS and on-sight an 8a outside.

What advice would you give to any young climbers reading this, who are thinking of taking up competitive climbing?

Climbing is an amazing sport at any age or level and if you are thinking about taking part in competition definitely go for it! Have a good time and give it your all but don’t be disappointed if you slip or fall, when I went to the British Finals the first time I came 27th and the following year I came 1st equal. Just remember to always stay motivated and set yourself goals that you can achieve and give it everything you’ve got! Always have a good time and enjoy what you’re doing.

Upside Down Update!

We are currently in the middle of a trip to Santa Linya, Teradettes, Rodellar. Current Ratho gang Neill Busby, Robbie Phillips, Ally Swinton and myself (Neil McGeachy) have hooked up with ex pats (& ex Ratho regulars) Tom Bolger, Lynne Malcolm and Alan Cassidy.

Since arriving, we have seen a string of hard ascents from all the crew including a first time 7c flash by Neill Busby, frist time 7b+ flash by Ali Swinton and Lynne Malcolm's incredible ascent (hardest to date) of the 7c+/8a "Hombres" in the Santa Linya Cave!!! There seems to be no stopping Lynne as she is rapidly moving through the grades out here in Spain. 8a is just round the corner for her, Im sure! Robbie Philips is making good use of his first week out here also with a swift on-sight of a 7c+/8a at Santa Linya and getting stuck into Rollito Sharma 8b+. He has had a few sessions on the route and is making very impressive links. Looks like it will be dispatched soon!

Tom and Alan are on fire as always, with both of them falling off the final moves on their projects over the last couple days (9a and 8c respectively!). What makes it all the more impressive for these 3 Spanish based Scots (well 1 is an adopted Scot!), is that all 3 work full time as teachers out here and only get a few 2 hour sessions a week and 1 full day at the weekend to climb! Quite impressive to be ticking off these grades without actually having that much time to climb! Can't really see it being that long before both Tom and Alan join the very small list of British climbers to have ticked 9a and for lynne to reach a grade that no other Scottish female has!

The variety of crags out here is quite hard to come to terms with! I was sitting at Teradetts last night looking out at more unclimbed limestone than we have in the whole of the UK! We have also visited a number of less popular crags over the last couple of weeks, which I had never heard of, yet were better quality than any sport crag I have visited in Scotland. It is quite hard to imagine having 2 such varied crags (i.e. Santa Linya and Teradetts) within 10 minutes drive of each over. They are completely different in styles with one being completely horizontal roof climbing and the other offering long sustained tuffa / face climbing. In fact the only other place I have come across this variety at such close quarters is in Ratho (with main wall and new comp wall). However it is a bit warmer out here even if the route setting is not as good as Ratho's!
;-)



More updates to come...

Crushing Dunkeld

I spent last Thursday Friday at upper cave climbing on remarkably dry rock, considering it was pouring down both days. I was joined for a sports climbing sessions by super strong British Team Kids - Jonny 'always moaning' Field, Natalie 'Fajita Wrapper' Berry and Robbie 'man sized power scream' Philips. Robby had already ticked everything at the crag, so was psyched to just get some training in on the rock. Nat and Jonny, however both had their eyes on ticking some of the local classics.

As always with these two, I was blown away with how easy they made everything look. Nat climbed here briefly when she was about 2 and a half & Jonny had never tried any of the climbs before! They started off by making light work of Hammish Teds, both flashing (Nat Retro)it with ease. Nat had tried the route about 56 years ago, but could remember nothing about it. They then moved on to the crag classic - Marlena. Nat got very close to flashing this route, cruising the technical crack section only to be denied the flash on the last move across to the chains. She then swiftly dispatched it with ease on her 2nd go. Next was Jonny 's go and he didn't disappoint! He made swift work of the crack section and after some aggressive snatching up the presses near the top he found him self clipping the chains. Not bad effort flashing your first 7c at 15. Especially considering the technical nature of the climb!



The 2nd day was spent on Silk Purse with both Nat and Jonny making good progress. Both look like they will tick the route next time they visit. We then finished off with some bouldering action at the base of the crag.



Finally I was treated to some rather unusual chat on the journey home. The 3 youth spent 50minutes (yes that's 50 minutes!) playing a word game that basically consisted of them speaking, but replacing the first letter of each word with a B. I spent 45 minutes testing my will power as I resisted the temptation to drive in to on coming trucks, just to make them stop! I am sure when I was a teenager, I had more interesting things on my mind than word games!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Interview 2 - Lisandro Defays!

Last Friday myself and Robbie had the fantastic opportunity to interview another of our climbing idols, Lisandro Defays. This modest man is known for his immense strength (especially when crushing boulder problems!) and his massive forearm diameter, as well as his love for mango fingers! What else would we possibly need to know about the Forearm King? We made our way into the boulder room at Ratho armed with mango fingers and a banana in order to delve deeper into the world of Mr Defays. Discover more in this enthralling interview involving pink elephants, bananas, forearm babies and other randomness that can only be found in a Natalie/Robbie interview!

Quick Bio

• Name: Lisandro Defays


• Age: 30 something!


• Country of origin: Argentina


• Speciality: Crushing everything in his path!


• Famous for: Crushing Robbie's Blue V7 (as seen on YouTube!)


• Weakness: Banging his knees (ouch!)


• Hobbies: Stealing mango fingers!

The Interview!!!

As a brand new feature to the Ratho blog, we have started video interviews with the ratho staff and regular climbing heroes.

Interview by Robbie Phillips and Natalie Berry!
Cameraman: Jonathan Field
Laughing in background: Neil Mcgeachy

To start of with we have Eddie "Irish beast" Barbour!!!

Intro:

Name: Eddie Barbour
Age: 23
Place of origin: Ireland
Regular Climbing Wall: EICA: Ratho
Hardest Onsight: 8a, E6
Hardest Flash: 8a/+
Hardest Boulder: V
Hardest Redpoint:8b, E9/10
Occupation: Post Graduate PhD in something crazy like Physical mechanical and engineering or something like that?
Hobbies: Wind Surfing (sometimes more so than climbing!!!!)
Claim to fame: His constant crimping finger? Its nuts!

NEW Boulder Problems and Routes (!!!)

The past couple of weeks has been pretty busy on the old route setting business and now that the leading ladder is coming up, we're seeing more top quality routes being set too! All the bouldering walls have been completely re-set and we have a brand new set of quality problems ranging from VB - V9! I would also like to introduce a new member to the routesetting team at ratho, the one, the only, Eddie "4 leaf clover" Barbour!!! Yer man Eddie has been signed up for routesetting now and he's already made his mark on the featured top-rope wall on the right hand side of the tower wall area!

Anyway, with the Leading ladder up on its way (which i'm hoping all you keen beans out there will be attending!), we've had red clad climbers hanging off the walls setting for the past two days and they'll be there again tomorrow. We are not using the new comp wall for this round and instead are making uses of the old comp wall which has been looking a little bare of late. Tonight our main man buz set a new 7b up through the roofs that looks positively crazy and the Argentinean Beast Lisandro was given the power (not that he ever needs any more) to set the 8a for the comp. Due to be completed tomorrow, its a stunning ripple line flowing through the two roofs and into the final steep arete! It looks sick!

For those boulderers out there wanting some hardcore problems to get them meat hooks stuck into, why not check out our new problems! This is a video of Lisandro Crushing my latest creation in the cave... V7!!! Please forgive my enthusiasm on the video, I was pretty psyched by this as everyone had told me it was impossible and that I had to change it ; P





WHAT A BEAST!!!

Local Cragging

On Thursday Buzz, Jonny Stocking and Myself managed to grab a couple of hours at Bowden Doors before having to come in to Ratho the evening. Once we got over the initial gale force winds making every thing seem like E16, we went on to make our way along the crag enjoying 'mint' conditions and an almost deserted crag.

This was young Jonny's first trip to the crag and he was well psyched to tick off some of the classics. After a rather blustery warm up soloing some classics like 'Main Wall' HVS 5a, 'Viper' E1 6a, 'Canada Crack' HVS 5a,and Klondyke Wall E2 5b , Jonny decided to try a few of the trickier challenges on offer. He swiftly dispatched the Font 7a version of the left hand start to 'Transformer'. He then followed this up with a couple of impressive solo's - flashing 'His Eminence' E4 6a 'The Trial' E2 5c and 'Posioden Adventure' E4 6a.

Master Buzzard was also on good form managing to solo 'Posioden' and 'His eminence' as well. Both routes that he has had his eye on for a few years now.

Having recently moved to the Edinburgh. I am starting to see the benefits of living in the east. Having Northumberland close enough to consider it as a morning or evening crag before work is a definite plus point.

Putting EYS Training to Good use at the Crag.

After competing in the Edinburgh round of the European Youth Series (EYS), Edinburgh based climber - Ross Kirkland joined myself and Adam Hughes on a short trad trip to Northumberland and the Peak. Ross Kirkland is 16 years of age and has been performing well on the British Junior Competition circuit for well over 8 years now, achieving some great results along the way like 2nd place in 2008 Team Trials and 8th in his first ever Senior British Lead Climbing Championships. This consistency lead to his selection in 2008 to the British Junior Climbing Team, thus allowing him to go on and represent his country in international climbing competitions.

Away from competition, Ross's other main climbing passion is trad climbing and he had been looking forward to putting some of the fitness gained through training for the EYS to good use on the rock. It has to be said though that bouldering is not one of Ross's strengths and he was curious to see how he would cope on the short powerful styles of climb found in Northumberland and the peak.

He need not have worried, as he took every thing in his stride and ticked his way through a very impressive selection of routes over the three days. The trip started off with a day at Back Bowden climbing with other Ratho instructors Pamela, Martin and Ally. Ross swiftly warmed up on the 'Arches' HVS 5a, then went on to solo the short and crimpy wall of 'Pin-Up' E2 6a. Ross stated that he really enjoyed both of these climbs, but was keen to attempt something a bit more challenging. Time for 'Lost Cause' E4 6b, a safe but brutally powerful and committing County Classic! If I am to be honest I thought Ross would struggle with the powerful nature of this climb! How wrong could I have been, with Ross making swift work of flashing it and even stopping mid route to remove his sweater (poser!). This was Ross's first E4 and was climbed in great style. Adam also had a great day climbing the 'Tube Direct' E5 5c, 'Lost Cause' & 'Uncouth Youth' E4 6a, all of which, Ross seconded. Ross finished off the day seconding me up the crags classics of 'on the Verge' and 'Right to Reply', both of which he cruised.

The second day saw us descend on Frogatt, keen to keep up the momentum of the successful first day. Ross had decided that he wanted to spend the day getting in some lower grade mileage. So he started off with a swift on sight of 'Strapiombante' E1 5b. His ideas for the day soon changed when he sat watching myself and Adam flailing our way up the huber Classic 'Stapadictomy' E5 6b. Realising it was safe, Ross decided to strap it on and give it a go. After a valiant flash attempt Ross dispatched the route ground up in good controlled style. Bearing in mind this is the boys' first real trip to the grit, this is a phenomenal achievement. Especially when you consider that he climbed his first E3 in June earlier this year. Ross basked in his glory and chilled out seconding Adam and myself on routes for the rest of the day.

We were joined on the final day by trad wad Tony Stone. Ross opted on a more chilled out session. Spending the morning bouldering around and climbing easier routes up to a grade of HVS. He rounded off the day with some exciting spotting duties while Tony on sight soloed the classic Pebble Mill E5 6b. Followed by seconding Adam Hughes' impressive lead of the same route. Sadly I didn't enjoy the same pleasure, managing to turn in to a gibbering wreck on the same climb, when I couldn't reach the final break, resulting in a rather feeble opt out for a safety line, much to the amusement of young Rosco! I will never forget looking down in a panic to see young Rosco rolling around on his back in hysterics. Loving how supportive my climbing partners are!!!!!

I was truly humbled by just how well young Ross performed on the trip, to tick E5 ground up on his first real trip to the grit is good going. I am sure there will be more big trad ticks to come from this young lad in the future.

For more Pics check out Adam's Blog

http://www.hughesmountaineering.blogspot.com

Local Talent – Glasgow Paul

I first met young Paul Williamson ('Glasgow Paul') around 5 years ago, when he came along to our Saturday BRYCS club. It was very apparent from day one that he already had 2 of the most important traits required to succeed in climbing – 1. a determination to push himself, and 2. mutant strong fingers!

Paul has progressed through the ranks as a climber over the last few years with some impressive results in regional, national and international competitions. Five years on he is very much established him self as one of the most talented and promising young climbers on the British Competition Circuit.

Paul's talents don't stop at just plastic pulling either. Ever since a very successful first outdoor climbing trip to Orpierre in 2006. He has gone on to tick some very impressive climbs throughout Scotland, Britain and Europe. He is now also very much established as a member of the 'west coast dumby squad' and is well on his way to maintaining the Dumbarton tradition of pushing Scottish bouldering standards forward to new levels. Just a pity he is a Celtic fan!

Achievements to date:
2009 Scottish Lead Climbing Championship
2009 Represented Britain in European Youth Series and the Youth World Cup
4th 2008 British Lead Climbing Championships
2008 Was awarded full team status on the British Climbing Team
Multiple F7c red-points in France and in the UK
7B+ on-sights in France and in the UK
V8 boulders in the UK


Future ambitions;
to climb in the Buttermilks in California
hopefully do some pretty hard boulder problems
to climb F8c one day (maybe at Dumbuck?)
to climb the Overlee project, (V very hard!?!)

Paul has recently been selected to represent Britain in the up and coming Kranj round of the European Youth Series. Good luck dude and get stuck in!

Tower + Mantel Shelf Board

Hey guys!

Set loads of new problems today and a new route on the comp wall with master buzz! The new route is the white going up the right hand side of the hangar wall graded at 7a! It's pretty much a jug fest apart from a few crimpy moves and pinches at the start but the roof is pretty crazy. The new boulder problems are in the cave, there are still plenty of problems to come but the current ones are pretty special!

We have on the tower:

Grey V6 (Screw ons)
Blue V6 (Screw ons)
Green V1
Pink V3
Tan V 2

And on the mantel shelf board section:

Grey V5
Purple V5 (Screw ons)
Pink V6
Tan V7
Blue V1
Yellow V7

Tell us what you think of them and if you have any comments, please don't hesitate to tell us! Remember that grades are only subjective opinions and everyone has different strengths and weaknesses, routes and problems will feel different depending on what you are good at. Also, the new problems haven't been climbed by many people so the grades should be off a wee bit...

Try them and tell us what you think!