EICA: Ratho Coaches Blog

New batch of XXL Volumes finished just in time for Sundays Boulder Comp...

2012-02-16T09:53:00.000-08:00

Eilidh and Keira aren't actually that small, it's just that our new batch of XXL Volumes are massive! Finished just in time for Sundays Fun Boulder Comp!

DMM and Evolv @ EICA:Ratho Boulder Comp!

2012-02-16T08:14:00.000-08:00

Our kind sponsors DMM and Evolv will be show casing their new products at this Sundays Fun Boulder Comp. Rob Greenwood will have DMM's new range of ice axes with him along with their gear destruction machine. Robbie Phillips will have Evolv's demo shoe range for all to try including their new Shaman rockshoe.

UKC/UKH at ISPO 2012 - DMM from UKClimbing.com TV on Vimeo.

Lapis "Wasp" coloured holds just arrived!

2012-02-16T06:14:00.000-08:00

We've just recieved a delivery of some tasty new "Wasp" coloured Lapis holds. Setting for Sunday's boulder comp starts tmrw so get ready to play on some funky new shapes and colours!

EICA:Ratho Fun Bouldering Comp Sunday 19th Feb 11am-4pm

2012-02-01T06:49:00.000-08:00

Howdy climbers, just a wee reminder for everyone that we'll be hosting our 2nd Fun Bouldering comp of the 2011-2012 Winter season on Sunday 19th February between 11am-4pm.

The comp is open to all levels of climber and should be a fun day for all. We have a few sponsors on board for the comp with a tasty selection of prizes on offer.

Categories are: Recreational VB-V2, Intermediate V2-V5, Advanced V5+, Veteran 45+, Junior 8-12 year old and 13-16 year old categories.

Entry price will be standard entry fee+£2.50 which includes a free drink at the prize giving ceromony.

Thanks to the following companies for their support...

5th November Boulder Comp Results

2011-11-06T02:48:00.000-08:00

5th November EICA Bonfire and Fun Bouldering Comp

2011-10-26T13:11:00.000-07:00

Howdy climbers,

Just a reminder that the EICA will be holding a Fun bouldering comp on Saturday 5th November from 11am-4pm. There will be a Bonfire, Fireworks, BBQ and social gathering after the event finishing at 7pm. This event will only be open to competitors and will include 1 free beer or soft drink.

The comp is open to all levels of climber and we will have the following categories: Recreational (VB-V2), Intermediate (V2-V5), Advanced (V5+), Veteran 45 yrs+, Junior 8-12, 13-16 yr old categories. Cost will be standard entry fee+£2.50

See you all there....

EICA:Ratho Fun Bouldering Comps 2011-12

2011-09-21T03:41:00.000-07:00

Howdy Climbers,

We're going to be organising 2 fun bouldering comps this winter. The first bouldering comp will be on Saturday 5th November which will hopefully include a Bonfire and Fireworks display afterwards (weather dependent of course...) and a free beer or soft drink for everyone (aren't we good to you... )

The second bouldering comp will be on Sunday 19th February. These comps will be open to all levels of climber and we'll be including an intermediate category this year. The cost will be standard entry fee plus £2.50.

Hope you can all make them,

buz

More boulder comp photos....

2011-02-27T02:26:00.000-08:00

Check out some more boulder comp photos from Gilles Moulin here:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rathocomp/

Fun Boulder Comp 2011 Results and some Photo's

2011-02-20T08:29:00.000-08:00

Here are the results from yesterday's Fun Boulder Comp:

U13 Boys

1 William Bosi 195
2 Robert Davidson 180
3 Sam Harlend sendra 180
4 Rory Cargill 177
5 Jamie Pendan 175
6 Rory White 167
7 David Medzybrodzki 163
8 Harry stansfeild 157
9 Ruraidh Middleton 146
10 Evan Davis 127
11 Findlay Johnson 126
12 Euan Farmer 122
13 benFindlay 102
14 Evan Rasmussen 89
15 Guy Mathison 89
16 Declan Currie 87

U13 girls

1 Rebecca Kinghorn 180
2 Eilalh Vass Payne 177
3 Emily Eadie 172
4 Kirsten Grey 172
5 Gabrialla Stewart 172
6 Keira Farmer 170
7 Morgan rodgers 165
8 Kirsten Taylor 164
9 Ellie Hogarth 156
10 Jodie Brown 154
11 Erili Geddes 107
12 Freya Baxter 99

13- 16 boys

1 scott Keir 200
2 Jamie Drummond 200
3 Steven Addison 197
4 Angus Davidson 186
5 Malcolm bradley 181
6 Scott donaldson 170
7 Ruaraidh Macaskill 163
8 Alex Bosi 150
9 andrew Hairsworth 93
10 Scott Govens 32

13-16 girls

1 Rachel Carr 197
2 Sophie Harper 147
3 Amy Anderson 146
4 Nikki Addison 145
5 Simla Green 139
6 Christie Macleod 107
7 Lyndsey Forsyth 106
8 Megan Saunders 79
9 Victoria Boyd 44
10 Hannah Dewar 30

Rec. Men
1 Alexei Matveyev 162
2 Gordon McKillop 161
3 John Sharples 147
4= Mike Lewis 145
4= Mitch Figures 145
6 Robbie Carruthers 140
7 David Carruthers 139
8 Grant Saunders 134
9 Colin Mcpherd 120
10 Ian Brown 108
11 Martin Wood 107
12 Alex Scott 93
13 Mark Hammonds 83
14 Dave Brown 77
15 Tim Squires 70
16 David Wilson 55
17= Tom Jones 50
17= Sean Hiddleston 50
19 John Macleod 45
20 Paul Gowens 40

Rec.Women

1 Nicola Bishop 135
2 Gail Robertson 54
3 Avril Gall 50
4 Dawn Thomson 47
5 Kim Picozzi 45
6 Emily Raemaekers 22

Adv. Men

1 Will Atkinson 197
2 Eddie Barbour 184
3 John Brown 170
4 Andrew Simpson 162
5 Alex Gorham 160
6 Dylan Mackenzie 157
7 Kris Devlin 149
8 Mike Rudden 147
9= Ross Henighen 137
9= Merlin Floate 137
11 Paul Williamson 134
12 WDC 102
13 David Gudmundsson 101
14= Nick O'Grady 100
14= Fraser Harle 100
15 Lukas Solanka 99
16 Paul Raeside 94
17 Fraser Gibson 87
18 Donald Slatter 60

Adv. Women

1 Natalie Berry 125
2 Anna Wells 114
3 Xiao Xian Goh 93
4 Lasma Seitinsone 92
5 Eva Sparreboom 72

Vet. Men

1 Ruairidh Mackenzie 149
2 Neil Shepherd 146
3 Peter Roy 144
4 Robert Durran 137
5 Kevin Gibson 114
6 Dave Hainsworth 90
7 Ed Payne 52
8 Gregor Hannappel 50
9 Sandy Carr 49

Thanks to Will Carrol for the photo's http://io-photography.co.uk/

Volumes Chapter 2

2011-02-17T12:37:00.000-08:00

Setting for Saturdays Fun Bouldering Competition started today which meant that our nice new batch of volumes were put up in the bouldering room. Here's a wee taster of what to expect...

Beastmaker 1000 and 2000 now at EICA:Ratho

2011-02-15T14:08:00.000-08:00

All you fingerboarders out there will be happy to know that the EICA:Ratho now have a Beastmaker 1000 and 2000 for your pulley straining pleasure.

The guys at Beastmaker say the 1000 for those operating in the Font 5 to 7c region (VS-E4/5) and the 2000 for Font 7a to 8b (E4-E11).

You can download some really useful training advice from the Beastmaker website:

http://www.beastmaker.co.uk/products1.htm

Gaz finding out if his joinery skills are up to scratch....

Oh la la, New Volumes at EICA:Ratho!

2011-02-04T10:52:00.000-08:00

Having worked in climbing walls for well over a decade now, the big change I have noticed over the past few years has been the introduction of volumes onto the climbing surface. Volumes really allow you to open up the variety of movement you can create whilst setting, as you no longer have to climb face on, on flat panels. You can incorporate 3D style climbing which adds so many more posibilities when setting. Volumes also allow you to constantly change the climbing surface as you can remove them and re-position them as you like.

The down side to volumes is that they are fairly expensive if bought commercially, however, if you're handy with a saw, plainer and drill the best method is to build your own, unfortunately, this isn't quite as easy as it sounds. I have built a few basic volumes in the past and have always found the most difficult part being able to keep the volume lying flush against the wall. I think I have spent a fair few hours hand plaining my volumes until they sit this way, usually with the volume decreasing in size and my usually pretty relaxed demeanor vanishing fairly rapidily....

Luckily, on the way to work this week I mentioned my volume building dilemma to Mr Gilles Moulin (french man in top pic). "I am building something like this all the time in France" was his reply.

So, with the help of a handy frenchman (Gilles) Calum Forsyth, Gaz Vincent and myself, we locked ourselves into the empty unit next to Tiso's (sorry Bruce for all the noise!) and got to work designing, building and painting some pretty radical volumes.

I'm pretty happy with the results and I really think that they'll add a new dimension to climbing at Ratho. You can see the fruits of our labour when we show case our new volumes at the EICA:Ratho Fun Bouldering Comp on Saturday the 19th February from 11am-4pm.

A special thank you has to be given to Gilles for sharing his secret french volume building formula with us. He definitely deserves a big high five if you see him in the arena!

EICA:Ratho Fun Bouldering Comp Saturday 19th Feb 2011 11am-4pm

2011-01-25T10:29:00.000-08:00

The EICA:Ratho will be hosting a fun bouldering competition on Saturday 19th February 2011 from 11am till 4pm.

The comp is aimed at climbers of all ability levels and will be a great social occasion. We have 6 different categories: Recreational VB-V3, Intermediate V3-V5,Advanced V6+, Veteran 45 yrs+, Junior 8-12 yr old, Junior 13-16 yr old in both Male and Female. Each category will have 20 brand new problems of the highest quality, incorporating the best volumes and holds that Ratho has to offer. Basically, it's a great opportunity to have an awsome bouldering session with like minded people.

Also, there are some top prizes from our kind sponsors: Holdz, DMM, Entre Prises, Tiso and Reach Climbing Coach with each competitor recieving a free comp T-shirt and 1 free after comp beer!

Entry fee will be £15 for Adults and £10 for Juniors. You can register on the day or you can save £2 by pre-registering now and also reserve your comp T.

Pat and Chris say, "It will be a cracking good day of cranking for climbers everywhere!"

New holds+New routes=Big smiles!

2011-01-19T12:50:00.000-08:00

It's been great to hear all of the really positive feedback from those of you that have been climbing on our recent batch of new routes. Sometimes you just get it right. This usually means a good spread of grades that follow the cleanest lines on the best parts of the wall using the tastiest holds. I guess it's also a combination of some milder weather, some awsome new holds and some dedicated route setters. All of which have put a real spark back into the arena after a abnormally chilly December! Well, if you don't believe me, here's the proof.......

This is 8 year old regular, Evan Davis (left) before attempting Calum's new Fluro Yellow 6a. Notice there is only a slight grin on his face.

This picture (right) was taken moments later. The grin has turned into an obvious smile! All because of a new route and some new Florescent yellow Core holds.....

9 year old Amelia Blunt happily leading Geeks Leading Ladder Florescent Green 6a+ on the Hanger Wall. Some people have even said that just looking at the new holds can put a smile on your face....

We have nearly finished a complete change over of routes on the Tower Top Roping wall. Luckily we have had the use of a very useful Cherry Picker that has made setting on the 27m Tower a far easier task (I have come very close to Deep Vain Thrombosis on more than one occasion whilst setting the Tower on ropes!).

Robbie giving the Tower a make over and avoiding DVT!

Unforntunately there are still some side effects to route setting all day!

We try to keep everyone that climbs at EICA:Ratho happy with new routes so we havn't forgotten all you boulderers out there. Iain Sneddon has been on a mission recently adding some really thought provoking problems to the Bouldering room.

You may want to thank this man if you've been enjoying the new problems on the back wall of the Bouldring room!

We will keep you updated with all route setting developments as they happen. In the mean time enjoy your climbing.....

BMC Leading Ladder @ EICA:Ratho

2011-01-17T08:23:00.000-08:00
The EICA:Ratho is currently hosting a round of the BMC Leading Ladder Competition series from Saturday 15th January to Sunday 30th January.
We have been hosting these competitions for the past 3 years and they have always proved popular with local and visiting climbers alike.

The format is simple, you buy a score card for £1, you choose your category: either under 16's, over16's, Improver (F6b/6b+), Recreational ( F7a/7b) or Elite (F7c/8a) and you get to try and on-sight 10 new routes graded from 5+ to 8a. If you succeed on a route on your first attempt you get maximum 20 points, 2nd go gains you 15 points, 3rd go 11 points, 4th go 8 points, 5th go 6 points, 6th go 8 points with any subsequent attempt, however many, gaining you one point. The perfect score therefore is 200 points.

The idea is that you can travel to walls around Britain that are hosting these comps, test your on-sight skills and if you feel you have done well, enter your top 3 score sheets and possibly gain entry into the National Leading Ladder Final.
If you fancy trying the Leading Ladder at EICA:Ratho you find all routes bar one on the new Entre Prises "Hanger Wall".
Route setting at EICA:Ratho is never an easy task as the size and volume of climbing here is massive. A special thank you has to go out to a few special individuals that helped to strip and set the Leading Ladder routes all in under 72 hours. These people are:

Gaz Vincent: Responsible for stripping the "Hanger Wall" in under 2 hours and setting the Black 6a, Black 7c and the fingery Green 8a.

Mark McGowan: Old school climber with some new school ideas. Who says 6b+'s can't go through roofs?

Neil McGeek: National route setter and all round nice guy, kindly taking time out of his busy full time climber schedule to set a tasty Fluro Green 6a+ and pumpy Pink 7b

Calum Forsyth: Inspiration for the Fluro Green 7a and also on how to flash 7c routes after not putting a rope on for 2 months (not that i'm envious in any way!)

Neill Busby: Creator of the Fluro Orange 6b, Pink 6c and Fluro Green 7a and probably many 1000's more routes at Ratho over the years!

Many thanks to Holdz and Axis for the speedy delivery of some mighty fine new holds!

Dylan McKenzie cruising the Pink 6c before his Steve McLure bat hang impression!

Iain Croply crusing Gaz's Black 6a

BMC Youth Open by Calum Forsyth

2011-01-13T03:32:00.000-08:00

My name is Calum Forsyth. I work and climb at the Edinburgh international climbing arena (Eica) in Ratho, just outside Edinburgh. I have been climbing for about 8 years now and have done many competitions, these have been mainly regional and national, including the Youth Climbing Series and British team trials. I have now competed in three team trials, in the previous two I have finished in 6th place and 8th place. the most recent team trials I entered was on the 27th November 2010, at Awesome Walls Climbing Centre, Liverpool,. This was my second trip to this wall.

Earlier this year i suffered an injury to the growth plate in one of my fingers in my right hand, at the time i was gutted, i was climbing well and all i wanted to do was continue, but, i soon realised it wasn't doing any good and i had to think of the long term effect it would have had if i continued to climb whilst not 100%. I set myself a goal of returning to climbing and aiming for the Team trials. I knew I had 6 months to get strong and fit again but I knew it wouldn't be easy and I was right! I was so determined to do well in the team trials, i gradually built up my training programme, I trained 4 times a week with Gary Vincent (Gaz) and the master as we know him, Neill Busby (Buzz). Throughout the six months I found it really hard to stay focussed but with two really great guys spurring me on it was easy to stay motivated and best of all psyched.
As the comp grew nearer my training decreased to easy climbing so not to get tired and injured. I kind off struggled with that one, i wondered why the climbing was getting easier, it didn't seem right but Gaz and Buzz convinced me it was the best way.

On the Friday the day before the comp my parents and I travelled down to the hotel we were going to be staying at. After a 4 hour journey we arrived in Liverpool we met up with a few other people who made the long travel south such as Nikki and Steven Addison (coming from Inverness 7hrs!!!!) , Olivia and Gabriella Stewart, Megan Sanders, William and Alexander Bosi,and Rachel Carr who all climb at Ratho on a regular basis.

The morning of the competition was obviously a nervous one as I didn't have a clue what to expect, the comp routine probably always the same but for some reason it never seems to workout that way! So after breakfast we headed off to the wall for registration. At the wall we were met by Rob Adie and were told what to do, sign in, collect our competition number and our t-shirts (yellow!). Then I was straight off to see what climbs I would be doing. The first route was around 18 meters high on the side wall which started off with two massive orange holds and suddenly it went into the most crimpy route I had seen in a long time and that's when the nerves got worse, bit i convinced myself as it was not very steep climbing, so I should be OK.

On the other hand I looked at my second route and it looked like it was set by the master busby as it was on the steep wave at the back of the wall it was a very awkward looking sequence but as to most of busby routes there is a hard way and an easy way the hard part was finding the easy way of doing it. I had no idea of what number I would be climbing as it was still yet to be decided on in the first route.
When it came to the first person climbing the orange I was watching closely to see how he made the moves and when he fell of I was worried about the grade of climb and then didn't focus on the other three climbers before me as I was so nervous so I went to warm up for 20 mins just trying to stay warm and not get pumped then it was my shot at the climb which had already spat of four other people so I was worried about getting started but after the first few moves I was back to my usual self blanking everything out and whistling to the music in the background as I do to focus my self there was one part of the route everyone kept falling of and I was thinking to my self I no I can't fall of if I want a good score, so I decided to not clip and get to the next good hold before reaching down and clipping and it worked for me so I fought on to the top.
I was so psyched that I had completed the route, but it was now on to the next climb. All I had to do now was wait and see how the other 16 competitors got on before seeing were I would place on the next route. After the results were posted I was only one of eight climbers to do this route and would there for climb on the 2nd one eighth as I was first to top out.

The second qualifier was an awkward looking route which was set by Neill Busby who also works and climbs at ratho. It was on the steep wave wall at the back of the church it started on the corner side of the wave on quite large holds but most of the route was on rubbish holds with a lot of awkward foot placements that were key to doing it. As it came to my climb I stepped up and didn't look at the route before jumping onto it as I just wanted to climb and of I went on this crazy looking climb that was technical from the off the first crux in this route was about five clips up were you had to traverse across this steep wall into a corner and clip then I realised that I was able to double clip which meant less hanging about on small holds trying to clip. After snacking out for a wee bit I then had to make my way across to this big heel hook to balance my self out and pull up for the next hold so after all of that I was totally pumped and was determined to stay on the wall so I fought on until the second last hold before falling off.

Despite not topping out, I was extremely happy with my efforts on this route and I think Buz was as well, he congratulated me on my effort and asked what I thought of the route I replied "it was rubbish!!!! (i told him i was only joking and it was in fact a really cool climb). So all I had to do now was wait and see were I would finish or if I would make it to the final. Once everybody had tried route 2 it was time for us to wait around 20 mins to see who made the finial. When the results were posted, there were 10 people going through and sadly the other 9 didn't quite make it. To my surprise I made the finial in 7th place and was so psyched.

Once every competitor had finished we were told we had to be in isolation for 1400hrs, if we were late we wouldn't be allowed to compete. This gave me 30 mins to get all my kit and food together before going down into the bouldering cave which was used as isolation. At 1400hrs we were told that viewing for our route would be at 1430hrs as this 30 mins gave the route setters times to change the routes a little bit. After viewing we were sent back down into isolation and told the running orders of the categories and low and behold my category was out last which gave use 3hrs in total doing nothing apart from trying to find ways to stay occupied. I think isolation should become an Olympic Sport in its own right because its sooooooooo hard!!!!

As I listened to everyones name being called out I was bored beyond belief but I also knew it was getting closer to my turn to climb. Most of all I just wanted to go out and climb (i'm not the best person to keep locked in a room for 3 hrs) I spent most of my time making up stupid boulder challenges with the other competitors who shared my pain. After 3hrs it was my turn to take to the stage on a very hard and incredibly awkward route set by none other than Tom Randell. I had climbed a number of Toms routes at the BLCC's so I knew it would have a lot of heel and toe hooks in it and low an behold there was!

I started this climb as any other, I walked straight out and did what needed to be done which was climb. I climbed the first few moves with a few mishaps but held in there as long as i physically could before making such a bad error by wrong handing myself. I was disappointed because it was a stupid mistake and not a technical or physical error it was my own stupid mistake. I wasn't going to get worked up about it as I made the finial which was already my biggest achievement of the day. After watching the other people climbing the scores were in and calculated. After the scores were posted it was quite a surprise on how closely packed the category was. As the results were posted I was named in 9th position which I thought was very respectable given the time scale I had to train for but I couldn't have had a better time competing. It was also great to meet up with people again, funny sport this climbing thing, meet and greet lots of fab people.

IMST Colors Report - Angus Davidson

2010-06-07T03:36:00.000-07:00

Angus was recently selected to represent UK in the IMST Colors Open Competition in Austria. He was joined on the trip by fellow Scots Niki Addison, Gabbie Stewart & William Bosi. Below is a report from Angus on his first ever international competition.

Imst was great. It was a great experience right from the start. Exiting all the way through.

It was amazing exploring Imst. Visiting the centre, going to the restaurants and doing lots of walks, but my favourite thing was the Alpine Coaster. Going up in the chair lifts and going down really fast in your own personal vehicle. The scary thing was the speed, you’re in-charge of the brakes and how fast you go and I recommend it to anybody.

You would expect to have a good nights sleep but no, Church bells ring at 6:00am which woke me up early. You had to be up at 7:00 to get your breakfast and get to the wall for 8:15.Tough times. The wall was fantastic, very steep, but flat at some points and all the climbs were set already. You had to switch from different types of climbing as some were powerful, some sustained and some were just ridiculously hard. Demos were there to save us from the nerves of "how are you supposed to do that?". They made it look easy =-(.The routes had a range from 6b+ - 7b+/7c.It was very efficient up to 10 climbers climbing at once. I topped 5 out of my 6 routes and I ended up in 9th position by the end of the day.

It gave me a lot more confidence for the 2nd day which was tough because the routes were a lot harder. The easiest grade was 7a+/7b and the hardest was 7c.It was a challenging day! The good thing was there was a pizza place upstairs. They did great pizzas and it had a great view of the mountains stretching up into the clouds. A great place to go. For most of the day you had to stay focused. I was in the zone and I topped 2-3 of my routes. I was climbing the best that I could. Overall I came 9th in Europe. I am very pleased of what I have done. Finally the nerves where over and I could relax. Later on that day we went to this tiny cafe just outside Austria. My dad told me how to order a coca-cola in German, but when the order came it was a rhubarb crumble. Thanks Dad.

The experience was ended as I arrived back home, and got into my nice warm bed.

Font Trip - Gabbie Stewart

2010-04-29T04:15:00.000-07:00

I am so lucky. Neil Gresham asked me to join him and his group for a whole week of coaching in Fontainebleau in France. I went with my mum & dad and we flew to Paris and then drove down to the gite we would be staying in with Neil and the others. We arrived on Saturday night after getting stuck in traffic around Paris, I was also very nervous because the rest of the group were all adults and I only knew Neil. Neil had two other coaches with him, Steve and Shaun. That night Neil introduced us to the group and explained a bit about what we would doing over the next week. Everyone was very excited – especially the adults who couldn’t get to sleep that first night.

On Sunday when we woke up it was raining but that didn’t stop us and we went off to Couvier to tackle our first boulders. I had never seen anything like the huge boulders we found, they were huge... and wet and slippery but we still managed about three hours climbing and it was fantastic, I didn’t know which boulder to try first. We got back to the gite and after we had our evening meal Neil, Steve and Shaun showed us the video of our climbing that day and pointed out our faults. It was a bit embarrassing but everyone learnt something.

The next morning it was sunny and I was even more excited. I ate lots of pain au chocolate and we headed for the forest!! At first the boulders were a little wet and so we looked around and checked them out while they were drying. When we started to boulder it was amazing, it is so different to bouldering indoors, I definitely prefer bouldering outside. The boulders are really technical and have REALLY small footholds so you have to be very balanced when you are on them. Before you get onto a boulder you have to arrange your crash mat into the right place depending on the angle of the problem, clean your crash mat with your towel, clean your shoes with the towel or your feet will slip off REALLY easily. Then you're off!!!!!
My climbing buddy today was Becky, who is a very good adult climber, she really nice and we give each other pointers on each problem and advice on how to tackle it. Shaun, the trainee coach, was great to work with and really helped me on the harder problems in Font. By 5pm my feet were killing me and I had to go back to the gite. I was exhausted by the time we were finished, after 5 hours training. That evening Neil showed us more video footage of the day going over general things we were all doing incorrectly and also individual points to work on.

The following day we went to Franchard Isatis and Franchard Cuisiniere, they were only a 10 minute walk in between and were both amazing!!! The problems are colour graded from white to yellow to orange to red to black to white again. I had a good morning and completed 10 red problems and nearly did a white problem (the hardest level). After about 2 hours it started lightly raining so we walked down the road to Cuisiniere. After warming up on a few slabs and trying a few red problems I asked Neil, if I could try something harder so he showed me an overhanging, reachy and awesome problem!!! I chose a sequence and brushed the holds. I was ready to try it! I had my first go and fell off just after the middle bit, it involved lots of heel hooks and big reaches. After I knew I could do the start of it I tried it from a standing start but I noticed there was a huge dyno to the next hold so I tried different places to put my feet and finally got it from standing start. My fingers were really red and nearly bleeding! Neil said I could have tried to join it all up if my fingers had been undamaged but said I shouldn’t because the skin was so thin. I still tried it because I had worked so hard on it but unfortunately fell off at the huge dyno. After that problem I climbed some reds and blues because my fingers were really sore. Not only me though, all the adults were suffering too.

On Thursday we went to a place near Noisey. It was beautiful, as good as all the other places we have been to. Although everyones fingers were still red raw and some were even cut we still had an amazing time. To warm up we did this really hard crimpy slab, after two goes I got up it, and so did Becky. It was very hard and was even harder if you had finger tape on. I didn't feel very warmed up so I tried another slab but I think I warmed up my throat more than my body because 3/4 of the way up there were two lizards, I screamed when I saw them because they gave me such a fright but I went to the top anyway and climbed as fast as I could on the way down!!! I was warmed up after that so I asked Neil for a harder problem to work on so he took me to this reachy, overhanging, juggy problem. It was a kind of traverse then it went up at the end. I really enjoyed this problem.

Since it was April Fools day, the night before Viv and I planned some tricks that we were going to play on Neil for a joke. The first one was putting flour in his chalk bag, it was really funny when he put his hand in and found out it was flour! The second one was when he was showing us a boulder problem we put big sticks and two pine cones in his chalk bag, he got a fright! The third and final one was placing a very heavy rock at the bottom of his climbing bag so he would be carrying extra weight when he lifted it up!

After all the pranks I got back to climbing and Neil set me another challenge, it was another reachy problem with no footholds! We joined in with some German women and used their crash mats. I had my first go and got to the same place as they did. My second go I got to the same place again, came off and went over on my ankle because the rocks underneath the crash mat were uneven.
I watched Neil do a very technical boulder problem then had to go home. My ankle was really painful!

Every evening Neil, Steve and Shaun would give us feedback on the days climbing, giving us individual comments and more general comments using the video footage. On the Friday it was raining and we couldn’t climb, my ankle was still sore and so I couldn’t climb anyway. Neil gave us a talk on training and diet and then we all had private feedback from the three coaches which was very scary. I was last to go through and so had to wait for about 2 hours. Because my ankle was sore Neil gave me a piggyback, they were very nice and gave me lots of helpful feedback.

I absolutely loved my week in Font and hope I can go back very, very soon. Thanks to Neil, Steve and Shaun I learned so much and would love to do more outdoor bouldering.

Gabs is sponsored by La Sportiva & would like to thank them for providing her with shoes for this trip!

2010 Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships - Saturday 6th March

2010-02-23T15:57:00.000-08:00

These are the final details for the 2010 Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships. First of all, thanks for your patience whilst the Championships have been swapped over from Extreme Dream to Transition Extreme.

There will be two DJs playing live all day, commentary from top local climbers, and free individual event photographs available to all.

That’s not to mention prizes for every category, trophies for keeps, and of course a stack of top quality problems.

Email have been sent out to all those invited. If you know of someone who doesn’t have the info they need, please let me know.

Registration 0900
Briefing & Qualifying 1000 – 1300
Semi-Finals & Finals 1400 – 1630
Finish 1700

Registration forms available in advance by emailing – jf01@transition-extreme.com
The entry fee will be at the reduced price of £15 per competitor. Please pre-pay over the phone on 01224 626 279.

Entry on the day will be cash only and cost £20 – thanks for your help.

ð ENQUIRIES
Please feel free to contact the Event Organiser, Johannes Felter, with any questions you have – either 01224 626279 or 07896 823537 or jf01@transition-extreme.com

ð AGE CATEGORIES
Climbers will compete in the age category in which they finished in 2009.
This event is open to the Top 5 finishers from South & North regions in all three age categories, male and female. You know who you are!

ð TROPHIES
If you won one of the official granite trophies last year, could you please bring it along to Aberdeen – thank you!

ð MCofS ENDORSEMENT
Transition Extreme feel duty bound to make competitors and parents aware that this event is not officially endorsed by the Mountaineering Council of Scotland. Competitors and parents should be aware that bouldering for younger children can carry an increased risk of injury due to the nature of the moves involved. Transition Extreme will use its wealth of experience and the best available advice to set problems to minimize these risks. Parents and competitors are asked to consider the physical demands of each problem very carefully prior to an attempt and if in any doubt should not attempt some problems.
All best wishes and we look forward to seeing you on the day!

Local Talent - Eleanor Hopkins

2009-12-18T02:39:00.000-08:00

I recently caught up with Callendar based climbing machine Eleanor Hopkins. This extremely talented young athlete is one of the most exciting prospects within British competition climbing at the moment. Even though she is still relatively new to the sport, she has worked hard and is now competing at the highest level. Eleanor recently won the British Team trials in youth c category (which she still has two full years left to compete in), beating an extremely experienced and competitive field on her way to doing so. It is also worth noting here that the final route in her category, which Eleanor came very close to on-sighting, was graded 7c/7c+. This bodes well for competing internationally in the future, as these are the kind of grades she will be coming up against in her category.

Keep an eye out for this talented young lady, as she has all the potential and professional approach to her training required to step up to the international stage. I'm just looking forward to 6 years down the line when she will start doing battle with her idol in the senior category! I think a certain climbing super star will be pretty nervous about that prospect!

How old are you and how long have you been climbing?

I’m 13 years old (14 in April) and have been climbing for 3 years this Christmas.

How did you get involved in climbing?

I first got involved in climbing at an October Kids Camp at Callander (near Stirling), I tried out the wall and I was hooked, So my dad learned to belay and I got my first pair of climbing shoes and harness at Christmas. I started to go about once a week but became a bit more serious when I joined The Young Explorers of Scotland climbing and activity group and then went to my first competition.

What made you want to try competition climbing?

The second round of YCS wall was at my local wall so I went along, not really knowing what to expect and came 2nd, a couple of weeks later I went the third round and overall came 3rd. That meant that I had qualified for the British Final held at Ratho and from then on started to do more and more competitions and got more involved in the sport.

You recently won the British Team Trials/selection Competition, How did this feel?

It is the most amazing feeling when you know you have climbed to the best of your ability and all your hard work has paid of! I am very pleased and happy with my result and would like to thank my coaches for all the help they gave me.

You train more professionally than any climber I have seen. Could you give us a brief run down of how you train?

I train 6 times a week with one rest day:
Monday: At home, strength circuits and rowing machine circuits
Tuesday: Climbing at Ratho
Wednesday: At home, strength circuits
Thursday: Climbing on home board
Friday: Rest day
Saturday: Strength and Conditioning Training at Herriot Watt University. Climbing at Ratho
Sunday: Climbing at Ratho

What would you say your strengths are?

Crimps, steep walls and training.

What would you say your weaknesses are?

Very powerful moves, slopers and dynos (but getting better!).

Have you climbed outdoors?

Only a couple times, twice at Malham and once at Benny Begg, on my first trip to Malham I managed to red-point my first route ever, Frankenstein 7a+.

Which competitor inspires you most from the British Junior competition circuit?

Natalie Berry

Which competitor inspires you most from international competition circuit?

Natalie Berry

What are your future ambitions (short term & long term)?

My short term ambitions are to do more outdoor climbing and compete at the EYS and Worlds, and my long term ambition is to qualify for the final in an EYS and on-sight an 8a outside.

What advice would you give to any young climbers reading this, who are thinking of taking up competitive climbing?

Climbing is an amazing sport at any age or level and if you are thinking about taking part in competition definitely go for it! Have a good time and give it your all but don’t be disappointed if you slip or fall, when I went to the British Finals the first time I came 27th and the following year I came 1st equal. Just remember to always stay motivated and set yourself goals that you can achieve and give it everything you’ve got! Always have a good time and enjoy what you’re doing.

Upside Down Update!

2009-11-18T05:39:00.000-08:00

We are currently in the middle of a trip to Santa Linya, Teradettes, Rodellar. Current Ratho gang Neill Busby, Robbie Phillips, Ally Swinton and myself (Neil McGeachy) have hooked up with ex pats (& ex Ratho regulars) Tom Bolger, Lynne Malcolm and Alan Cassidy.

Since arriving, we have seen a string of hard ascents from all the crew including a first time 7c flash by Neill Busby, frist time 7b+ flash by Ali Swinton and Lynne Malcolm's incredible ascent (hardest to date) of the 7c+/8a "Hombres" in the Santa Linya Cave!!! There seems to be no stopping Lynne as she is rapidly moving through the grades out here in Spain. 8a is just round the corner for her, Im sure! Robbie Philips is making good use of his first week out here also with a swift on-sight of a 7c+/8a at Santa Linya and getting stuck into Rollito Sharma 8b+. He has had a few sessions on the route and is making very impressive links. Looks like it will be dispatched soon!

Tom and Alan are on fire as always, with both of them falling off the final moves on their projects over the last couple days (9a and 8c respectively!). What makes it all the more impressive for these 3 Spanish based Scots (well 1 is an adopted Scot!), is that all 3 work full time as teachers out here and only get a few 2 hour sessions a week and 1 full day at the weekend to climb! Quite impressive to be ticking off these grades without actually having that much time to climb! Can't really see it being that long before both Tom and Alan join the very small list of British climbers to have ticked 9a and for lynne to reach a grade that no other Scottish female has!

The variety of crags out here is quite hard to come to terms with! I was sitting at Teradetts last night looking out at more unclimbed limestone than we have in the whole of the UK! We have also visited a number of less popular crags over the last couple of weeks, which I had never heard of, yet were better quality than any sport crag I have visited in Scotland. It is quite hard to imagine having 2 such varied crags (i.e. Santa Linya and Teradetts) within 10 minutes drive of each over. They are completely different in styles with one being completely horizontal roof climbing and the other offering long sustained tuffa / face climbing. In fact the only other place I have come across this variety at such close quarters is in Ratho (with main wall and new comp wall). However it is a bit warmer out here even if the route setting is not as good as Ratho's!
;-)

More updates to come...

Crushing Dunkeld

2009-11-02T11:46:00.000-08:00

I spent last Thursday Friday at upper cave climbing on remarkably dry rock, considering it was pouring down both days. I was joined for a sports climbing sessions by super strong British Team Kids - Jonny 'always moaning' Field, Natalie 'Fajita Wrapper' Berry and Robbie 'man sized power scream' Philips. Robby had already ticked everything at the crag, so was psyched to just get some training in on the rock. Nat and Jonny, however both had their eyes on ticking some of the local classics.

As always with these two, I was blown away with how easy they made everything look. Nat climbed here briefly when she was about 2 and a half & Jonny had never tried any of the climbs before! They started off by making light work of Hammish Teds, both flashing (Nat Retro)it with ease. Nat had tried the route about 56 years ago, but could remember nothing about it. They then moved on to the crag classic - Marlena. Nat got very close to flashing this route, cruising the technical crack section only to be denied the flash on the last move across to the chains. She then swiftly dispatched it with ease on her 2nd go. Next was Jonny 's go and he didn't disappoint! He made swift work of the crack section and after some aggressive snatching up the presses near the top he found him self clipping the chains. Not bad effort flashing your first 7c at 15. Especially considering the technical nature of the climb!

The 2nd day was spent on Silk Purse with both Nat and Jonny making good progress. Both look like they will tick the route next time they visit. We then finished off with some bouldering action at the base of the crag.

Finally I was treated to some rather unusual chat on the journey home. The 3 youth spent 50minutes (yes that's 50 minutes!) playing a word game that basically consisted of them speaking, but replacing the first letter of each word with a B. I spent 45 minutes testing my will power as I resisted the temptation to drive in to on coming trucks, just to make them stop! I am sure when I was a teenager, I had more interesting things on my mind than word games!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Interview 2 - Lisandro Defays!

2009-11-02T04:34:00.000-08:00

Last Friday myself and Robbie had the fantastic opportunity to interview another of our climbing idols, Lisandro Defays. This modest man is known for his immense strength (especially when crushing boulder problems!) and his massive forearm diameter, as well as his love for mango fingers! What else would we possibly need to know about the Forearm King? We made our way into the boulder room at Ratho armed with mango fingers and a banana in order to delve deeper into the world of Mr Defays. Discover more in this enthralling interview involving pink elephants, bananas, forearm babies and other randomness that can only be found in a Natalie/Robbie interview!

Quick Bio

Name: Lisandro Defays

Age: 30 something!

Country of origin: Argentina

Speciality: Crushing everything in his path!

Famous for: Crushing Robbie's Blue V7 (as seen on YouTube!)

Weakness: Banging his knees (ouch!)

Hobbies: Stealing mango fingers!

The Interview!!!

2009-10-28T06:39:00.000-07:00
As a brand new feature to the Ratho blog, we have started video interviews with the ratho staff and regular climbing heroes.

Interview by Robbie Phillips and Natalie Berry!
Cameraman: Jonathan Field
Laughing in background: Neil Mcgeachy

To start of with we have Eddie "Irish beast" Barbour!!!

Intro:

Name: Eddie Barbour
Age: 23
Place of origin: Ireland
Regular Climbing Wall: EICA: Ratho
Hardest Onsight: 8a, E6
Hardest Flash: 8a/+
Hardest Boulder: V
Hardest Redpoint:8b, E9/10
Occupation: Post Graduate PhD in something crazy like Physical mechanical and engineering or something like that?
Hobbies: Wind Surfing (sometimes more so than climbing!!!!)
Claim to fame: His constant crimping finger? Its nuts!

NEW Boulder Problems and Routes (!!!)

2009-10-15T12:24:00.000-07:00
The past couple of weeks has been pretty busy on the old route setting business and now that the leading ladder is coming up, we're seeing more top quality routes being set too! All the bouldering walls have been completely re-set and we have a brand new set of quality problems ranging from VB - V9! I would also like to introduce a new member to the routesetting team at ratho, the one, the only, Eddie "4 leaf clover" Barbour!!! Yer man Eddie has been signed up for routesetting now and he's already made his mark on the featured top-rope wall on the right hand side of the tower wall area!

Anyway, with the Leading ladder up on its way (which i'm hoping all you keen beans out there will be attending!), we've had red clad climbers hanging off the walls setting for the past two days and they'll be there again tomorrow. We are not using the new comp wall for this round and instead are making uses of the old comp wall which has been looking a little bare of late. Tonight our main man buz set a new 7b up through the roofs that looks positively crazy and the Argentinean Beast Lisandro was given the power (not that he ever needs any more) to set the 8a for the comp. Due to be completed tomorrow, its a stunning ripple line flowing through the two roofs and into the final steep arete! It looks sick!

For those boulderers out there wanting some hardcore problems to get them meat hooks stuck into, why not check out our new problems! This is a video of Lisandro Crushing my latest creation in the cave... V7!!! Please forgive my enthusiasm on the video, I was pretty psyched by this as everyone had told me it was impossible and that I had to change it ; P

WHAT A BEAST!!!

Local Cragging

2009-10-13T08:46:00.000-07:00

On Thursday Buzz, Jonny Stocking and Myself managed to grab a couple of hours at Bowden Doors before having to come in to Ratho the evening. Once we got over the initial gale force winds making every thing seem like E16, we went on to make our way along the crag enjoying 'mint' conditions and an almost deserted crag.

This was young Jonny's first trip to the crag and he was well psyched to tick off some of the classics. After a rather blustery warm up soloing some classics like 'Main Wall' HVS 5a, 'Viper' E1 6a, 'Canada Crack' HVS 5a,and Klondyke Wall E2 5b , Jonny decided to try a few of the trickier challenges on offer. He swiftly dispatched the Font 7a version of the left hand start to 'Transformer'. He then followed this up with a couple of impressive solo's - flashing 'His Eminence' E4 6a 'The Trial' E2 5c and 'Posioden Adventure' E4 6a.

Master Buzzard was also on good form managing to solo 'Posioden' and 'His eminence' as well. Both routes that he has had his eye on for a few years now.

Having recently moved to the Edinburgh. I am starting to see the benefits of living in the east. Having Northumberland close enough to consider it as a morning or evening crag before work is a definite plus point.

Putting EYS Training to Good use at the Crag.

2009-10-13T04:26:00.000-07:00

After competing in the Edinburgh round of the European Youth Series (EYS), Edinburgh based climber - Ross Kirkland joined myself and Adam Hughes on a short trad trip to Northumberland and the Peak. Ross Kirkland is 16 years of age and has been performing well on the British Junior Competition circuit for well over 8 years now, achieving some great results along the way like 2nd place in 2008 Team Trials and 8th in his first ever Senior British Lead Climbing Championships. This consistency lead to his selection in 2008 to the British Junior Climbing Team, thus allowing him to go on and represent his country in international climbing competitions.

Away from competition, Ross's other main climbing passion is trad climbing and he had been looking forward to putting some of the fitness gained through training for the EYS to good use on the rock. It has to be said though that bouldering is not one of Ross's strengths and he was curious to see how he would cope on the short powerful styles of climb found in Northumberland and the peak.

He need not have worried, as he took every thing in his stride and ticked his way through a very impressive selection of routes over the three days. The trip started off with a day at Back Bowden climbing with other Ratho instructors Pamela, Martin and Ally. Ross swiftly warmed up on the 'Arches' HVS 5a, then went on to solo the short and crimpy wall of 'Pin-Up' E2 6a. Ross stated that he really enjoyed both of these climbs, but was keen to attempt something a bit more challenging. Time for 'Lost Cause' E4 6b, a safe but brutally powerful and committing County Classic! If I am to be honest I thought Ross would struggle with the powerful nature of this climb! How wrong could I have been, with Ross making swift work of flashing it and even stopping mid route to remove his sweater (poser!). This was Ross's first E4 and was climbed in great style. Adam also had a great day climbing the 'Tube Direct' E5 5c, 'Lost Cause' & 'Uncouth Youth' E4 6a, all of which, Ross seconded. Ross finished off the day seconding me up the crags classics of 'on the Verge' and 'Right to Reply', both of which he cruised.

The second day saw us descend on Frogatt, keen to keep up the momentum of the successful first day. Ross had decided that he wanted to spend the day getting in some lower grade mileage. So he started off with a swift on sight of 'Strapiombante' E1 5b. His ideas for the day soon changed when he sat watching myself and Adam flailing our way up the huber Classic 'Stapadictomy' E5 6b. Realising it was safe, Ross decided to strap it on and give it a go. After a valiant flash attempt Ross dispatched the route ground up in good controlled style. Bearing in mind this is the boys' first real trip to the grit, this is a phenomenal achievement. Especially when you consider that he climbed his first E3 in June earlier this year. Ross basked in his glory and chilled out seconding Adam and myself on routes for the rest of the day.

We were joined on the final day by trad wad Tony Stone. Ross opted on a more chilled out session. Spending the morning bouldering around and climbing easier routes up to a grade of HVS. He rounded off the day with some exciting spotting duties while Tony on sight soloed the classic Pebble Mill E5 6b. Followed by seconding Adam Hughes' impressive lead of the same route. Sadly I didn't enjoy the same pleasure, managing to turn in to a gibbering wreck on the same climb, when I couldn't reach the final break, resulting in a rather feeble opt out for a safety line, much to the amusement of young Rosco! I will never forget looking down in a panic to see young Rosco rolling around on his back in hysterics. Loving how supportive my climbing partners are!!!!!

I was truly humbled by just how well young Ross performed on the trip, to tick E5 ground up on his first real trip to the grit is good going. I am sure there will be more big trad ticks to come from this young lad in the future.

For more Pics check out Adam's Blog

http://www.hughesmountaineering.blogspot.com

Local Talent – Glasgow Paul

2009-10-04T12:21:00.000-07:00

I first met young Paul Williamson ('Glasgow Paul') around 5 years ago, when he came along to our Saturday BRYCS club. It was very apparent from day one that he already had 2 of the most important traits required to succeed in climbing – 1. a determination to push himself, and 2. mutant strong fingers!

Paul has progressed through the ranks as a climber over the last few years with some impressive results in regional, national and international competitions. Five years on he is very much established him self as one of the most talented and promising young climbers on the British Competition Circuit.

Paul's talents don't stop at just plastic pulling either. Ever since a very successful first outdoor climbing trip to Orpierre in 2006. He has gone on to tick some very impressive climbs throughout Scotland, Britain and Europe. He is now also very much established as a member of the 'west coast dumby squad' and is well on his way to maintaining the Dumbarton tradition of pushing Scottish bouldering standards forward to new levels. Just a pity he is a Celtic fan!

Achievements to date:
2009 Scottish Lead Climbing Championship
2009 Represented Britain in European Youth Series and the Youth World Cup
4th 2008 British Lead Climbing Championships
2008 Was awarded full team status on the British Climbing Team
Multiple F7c red-points in France and in the UK
7B+ on-sights in France and in the UK
V8 boulders in the UK

Future ambitions;
to climb in the Buttermilks in California
hopefully do some pretty hard boulder problems
to climb F8c one day (maybe at Dumbuck?)
to climb the Overlee project, (V very hard!?!)

Paul has recently been selected to represent Britain in the up and coming Kranj round of the European Youth Series. Good luck dude and get stuck in!

Tower + Mantel Shelf Board

2009-09-26T12:05:00.000-07:00
Hey guys!

Set loads of new problems today and a new route on the comp wall with master buzz! The new route is the white going up the right hand side of the hangar wall graded at 7a! It's pretty much a jug fest apart from a few crimpy moves and pinches at the start but the roof is pretty crazy. The new boulder problems are in the cave, there are still plenty of problems to come but the current ones are pretty special!

We have on the tower:

Grey V6 (Screw ons)
Blue V6 (Screw ons)
Green V1
Pink V3
Tan V 2

And on the mantel shelf board section:

Grey V5
Purple V5 (Screw ons)
Pink V6
Tan V7
Blue V1
Yellow V7

Tell us what you think of them and if you have any comments, please don't hesitate to tell us! Remember that grades are only subjective opinions and everyone has different strengths and weaknesses, routes and problems will feel different depending on what you are good at. Also, the new problems haven't been climbed by many people so the grades should be off a wee bit...

Try them and tell us what you think!

New Boulder Problems and Routes

2009-09-24T15:09:00.000-07:00
Good News everyone! Like I said 7 weeks ago, the wall was in for a big change in the area of route setting. The plan has been going well, for 5 weeks straight we managed to re-set a different part of the bouldering wall until every ratho bouldering wall had been re-set. We where going to restart the re-setting if the bouldering walls again after the 5 week period and begin anew, but me and Buz both felt that 5 weeks wasn't very long and there where tonnes of new problems to get at so we left a 2 week gap at which more new problems can be set on all bouldering walls and then we would begin anew. So 7 weeks has passed and today I stripped the left hand side of the bouldering cave! So lots of new problems on their way, YEAH!!! Psyched!

Also, today Buz and I set a new hard route through the hangar wall, we think 8aish? The grades of the new routes are as follows from Left to Right:

White 6b
Blue 7c+
Grey 8a
Tan 7b
Yellow 8b
White 6b+
Blue 7b+
Purple 7a+/b
Yellow 7c
Ripple 7b+
Yellow 6c+
Purple 7b+
Green 7a

These are not official, as we haven't had too many people check the grades as yet, but as soon as we get a consensus we will stick the grades up on the white board left of the hangar wall. So everyone, get on the routes and tell us what you think yeah?

Pics from the weekend

2009-09-22T09:21:00.001-07:00
Paul giving it biceps on the 2nd qualifier

Sam Brannigan showing us some fight!

Jonny Stocking showing determination

Nat... cruising...

Jonny Field looking solid on the 2nd qualifier

Brand Spanking New Routes!

2009-09-22T04:43:00.000-07:00
So guys, the EYS is over and the finals and some of the qualifiers have been left up. So why not test yourself against the best in Europe? Not only that but Neil Busby, Neil Mcgeachy and Mark (Zippy) Pretty have all been working hard and have set a good number of new routes on the old comp wall and the hangar wall! We aren't 100% on the grades right now and are still tweaking them slightly but there should be a good range from 6b - 8b, plenty for everyone to get there fingers into.

On another note, for you boulderers out there, left side of the cave is getting re-set this week too so you'll have a god number of new problems there to get stuck into as well! All our problems where very well appreciated by the strang euro wads when they came over for the comp. On saturday and Sunday the boulders and cave where mobbed with young climbing beasts crushing everything in sight and they only had good things to say about the quality of the problems (certainly good to hear when your work is appreciated).

And as well as that, we have brand new rungs for the campus board and this time they are exactly the right space apart, identical to that of the moon board! We've also ordered a beastmaker and as soon as the supplies increase we'll have it set up in ratho too. PSYCHED!

Get down to ratho guys and lets see what you've got!

Local Talent: Jaime Davidson

2009-09-15T07:21:00.000-07:00

This weekend sees EICA: Ratho hold the Edinburgh Round of the IFSC European Youth Series (EYS). One local climbing star that will be hoping to make an impact on her international debut is Cowdenbeath based climber Jaime Davidson. Jaime is a product of the EICA: Ratho Youth Program and has been rapidly progressing through our various kids climbing clubs on her way towards international competition over the last 6 years.

Jaime is still only 14 years, but has already build up a sports climbing competition C.V. to be proud of, with a long list of achievements most climbers could only dream of. See below;

2009 South Scotland Champion (14-16yrs) – Youth Climbing Series
2009 Scottish Champion (14 – 16yrs) Scottish Youth Climbing Championships
2009 Scottish Champion (11 – 13yrs) Scottish Youth Bouldering Championships
2009 Kirkcaldy District Sports Council- Junior Athlete of the Year Award
2009 2nd Place (Senior) - Dundee Bouldering League
2009 British Junior Climbing Team Squad Member

2008 South Scotland Champion (11 – 13yrs) – Youth Climbing Series
2008 British Champion (11 – 13yrs) –Youth Climbing Series National Final
2008 Scottish Champion (11 – 13yrs) – Scottish Youth Climbing Championships
2008 1st Place (Youth C) – British Team Trials
2008 1st Place (junior) - Dundee Bouldering League
2008 British Junior Climbing Team Squad Member

2007 South Scotland Champion (10 – 12yrs) – Youth Climbing Series
2007 Winner (juniors) – East v West Bouldering Series

2006 South Scotland Champion (10 – 12yrs) – Youth Climbing Series
2006 Winner (junior) – Art Bloc Nice Open Bouldering Competition

2005 2nd Place South Scotland (10 – 12yrs) – Youth Climbing Series
2005 Winner (under 14s) – Alien Rock Bouldering League
2005 Finalist (senior – at an age of 10yrs) – Scottish Mixed Masters

2004 2nd Place South Scotland (7 - 9yrs) – Youth Climbing Series

This weekends EYS presents Jaime’s biggest competition challenge to date, with the prospect of testing her skills against all of the top junior climbers from across Europe. As her coach and someone who has witnessed at close hand how well this talented young girl deals with pressure, I have every faith that she will rise to the occasion and make everyone proud! Jaime is definitely one to look out for, not just in this round of the EYS, but in next years Youth World Cup in Edinburgh and other international climbing competitions in the future. If you want to show your support to British Team this weekend, make your way down to EICA: Ratho and cheer them on.

Spectators pricing is as follows;
Sat (qualification rounds) £3.00
Sun (Finals) £3.00
2 Day Ticket £5.00
Under 16s – half price
Under 8s - free
* Climbing will commence at 8.30 am on the Sat morning!

2009 Youth Development Events - Thank you MCofS

2009-09-14T07:34:00.000-07:00

This year saw 4 very successful youth climbing development events take place at EICA Ratho. These events were designed to support and motivate young Scottish climbers of all ages and abilities. As well as promoting participation pathways into the sport at all levels. These events could not have taken place without the support of the Mountaineering Council of Scotland (MCofS), who provided funding to assist with the organisational and operational costs of running these events. They also assisted with the expenses cost of volunteers assisting on these days.

This continued commitment from the MCofS to supporting Youth Climbing within Scotland is very much appreciated by all of the kids, parents and volunteers, who benefit. As a coach, instructor and volunteer, who gains a lot from being involved in such initiatives, I believe that the level of enthusiasm and standard of climbing on display from young climbers in our country is truly inspiring. The MCofS is largely responsible for helping these young climbers through providing a network of support (i.e. coaching, competition, outdoor/indoor instruction and information).

2009 Mountaineering Council of Scotland Youth Development Event Details

Event 1 – Young Climbers Introduction to On-sighting (26.04.09)

Aims of Event
- To offer coaching and assistance to young climbers, who want to develop their route reading and on-sight climbing skills.
- To create more awareness of the sport & generate interest in what can be achieved in climbing.
- To show current pathways in place to assist young people in becoming more active within climbing

This day was a huge success with 3 separate work shops taking place aimed at supporting climbers from entry climber level, through to national competition climber.

The day started with a 4 hour mock competition for Scottish Based British Team members and young Scottish climbers on the MCofS Scottish Climbing Team. These talented climbers spent time practising the skills required for route mapping and putting this knowledge into practise on the wall. As a coach, it was truly humbling to watch the standard of young climber Scotland has to offer at the moment.

The afternoon activities were split into two separate sessions with British/Scottish Team members staying back to provide coached sessions on route reading to Youth Climbing Series climbers and Quick-draw volunteers offering introduction to climbing sessions to beginners.

Every climber to attend the event was given information about ways in which they can access outdoor climbing sessions, through initiatives like ‘MCofS Real Rock’ and
‘Adventure Edinburgh’.

Event 2 – Young Climber’s Introduction Demonstrations & Flash Based Climbing in Competitions (14.06.09)

Aims of Event
- To help prepare young Scottish climbers for this years 2009 Youth Climbing Series finals.
- To create more awareness in the activity and generate interest in what can be achieved within the sport.
- To show current pathways in place to assist young people in becoming more active within climbing.

This was a great day for every one who attended. Again the days activities were split into three workshops catering for complete beginners, Youth Climbing Series Climbers and National Competition level climbers!

The day started with a Mock Youth Climbing Series(YCS) competition for all of the young Scottish climbers representing their region at this years’ final. This event was also attended by various other YCS competitors from throughout Britain that wanted to test their skills against the Scottish youth! British Junior team members were on hand to offer tips and advice on competing to all of the youngsters.

The afternoon consisted of two sessions; with British & Scottish junior team members taking part in a workshop looking at gaining helpful information from watching route demonstrations. Top British competition climber- Alan Cassidy was on hand to demonstrate the routes and also offer tips on watching and learning from demos.

The mobile climbing Tower was also on hand throughout the afternoon to offer complete beginners the chance to try climbing. These future young climbers were also given the opportunity to observe the top level competition climbers in action and draw inspiration from what can be achieved in the sport!

Again every climber to attend the event was given information about ways in which they can access outdoor climbing sessions, through initiatives like ‘MCofS Real Rock’ and ‘Adventure Edinburgh’.

Event 3 – Introduction to Climbing – Summer School (04.07.09)

Aims of event
- To offer a full day of free climbing activities, aimed at introducing young people to the joys of climbing.
- To increase awareness of pathways into the sport through indoor climbing centres, Adventure Edinburgh and MCofS.

This event consisted of 3 climbing based workshops aimed at introducing novice climbers to bouldering, top roping and abseiling. These sessions were ran by EICA instructors and MCofS volunteers. Resident British Team Member Ross Kirkland was also on hand to offer encouragement and top tips to the kids throughout. The 30 youngsters that attended the event were also given the opportunity to attend a lecture & video by Pamela Miller on ‘Life beyond the Climbing Wall’.

Every new climber also received a goodie bag stuffed full of free gifts and information on climbing walls throughout Scotland, coaching programs at Glasgow climbing Centre, EICA: Ratho, Alien Rock, Extreme Dream, Avertical World and Inverness Climbing Centre, as well as initiatives such as Adventure Edinburgh and MCofS Real Rock sessions.

Event 4 –European Youth Series (EYS) Preparation Event (06.09.09)

Aims of event
- To prepare British competitors for the Edinburgh EYC. This takes place on 19th 20th September 2009.
- To create more awareness of competition sport climbing and generate interest in what can be achieved in the activity at international level.

This event was attended by all 34 British Team members representing the United Kingdom in this year Edinburgh Leg of the European Youth Series. MCofS and British Team coaches were on hand to run workshops on warming up within competition, dealing with isolation, watching demonstrations, route mapping and preparing your self mentally & physically. The event also consisted of a mock run through of an EYS, providing the competitors with valuable competition experience and time on the new competition wall at EICA:Ratho. Hopefully this day has played a part in helping our country’s young climbing super stars for their big day.

Running in conjunction with this event were reduced cost mobile tower slots and introduction to climbing sessions, ran by MCofS volunteers. New climbers were also provided with information packs and encouraged to watch the top British climbers in action throughout the day.

All of these events have been great fun for the 100’s of young climbers and numerous volunteers involved! Hopefully some valuable tips, advice and motivation has been passed on along the way too! Again a massive thanks has to be made to the Mountaineering Council of Scotland for making these events possible!

2009-08-27T04:39:00.000-07:00
http://www.mineral-spirit.fr/competition/videos.html

Keep up to date with how the local hot shots are performing in the Youth World Cup on the above link.

Scottish Climbers -
Nat Berry
Jonny Stocking
Paul Williamson
Robbie Phillips
Roberto MacKenzie

Girl Power

2009-08-26T06:17:00.000-07:00
Would just like to congratulate EICA:Ratho coach Mhairi on dispatching Marlene 7C at Upper Cave Crag - Dunkeld. There seems to no stopping her at the moment as she rapidly moves up through the grades at a ridiculous rate of knots. Rumour has it that she has also had a couple of sneaky sessions on an 8a and was not looking too far away from it. The race is definitely on for the title of first Scottish Female to tick 8a outdoors. With local comp star Nat Berry (technically from Liverpool, but an adopted Scot!) getting more psyched for real rock and Lynne Malcolm having ticked 7c+ earlier in the season and now living in northern Spain, I don't think it will be long before this is achieved. I apologise if there is a Scottish female out there already climbing 8a that I am not aware of!

Well done Mhairi

Mhairi cranking it out in Lakeland.

New Adition to EICA: Route Setting

2009-08-25T15:50:00.000-07:00

Over the last 2 months EICA: Ratho have been testing a selection of holds from the latest climbing hold manufacturers on the block - Extreme Dream Holds. These holds are no ordinary climbing holds. They are made from moulds taken directly from real rock at the crag and they are made from a resin mix that has been fine tuned to create exactly the same texture as the rock type they are designed on. I have to be honest and say that I have taken the blind fold test for each range of rock type hold that they produce and I cannot tell the difference between Extreme Dream Holds and Rock. These holds are nothing like any other holds on the market and I feel are definitely an interesting addition to the selection of holds we already have at on the walls at Ratho. Route setting with these holds is very enjoyable and the range of different and random shapes make it possible to set extremely challenging and hard to read problems and routes.

We have two full Extreme Dream routes in the centre for everyone to test their route reading skills on. The Main Top Roping Wall is home to the blue F5 on line 78. This is set from the Extreme Dream Gabbro range and offers some cool bridging and mantle shelf action. The other route is set using the Grit-stone range and offers some powerful and technical climbing up the middle arete on the old comp wall. The Green route on line 39 was set as a qualifying route for the recent British Team Trials. The nature of this range means that it is extremely difficult to read moves from the ground, which resulted in some rather sketchy moments during the trials. Both of these routes have proved extremely popular, and we have received some very enthusiastic and positive feedback from members who have tried them. If you have not tried the routes yet, get stuck in and let us know what you think of them. Be warned though these holds come with an extreme friction warning and it is advised that you adopt a slow, precise and controlled climbing style when attempting them as thrashing or snatching will only be rewarded with skin loss!

Full range of holds include;
Gabbro Range
Basalt Range
Gneiss Range
Sand-Stone Range
Grit Stone Range
Granite Range

Check out the website if you want more info on these climbing holds: www.extreme-dream.com

"a very welcome break from the mundane blob pulling experience that is rather too common these days. Every climbing centre should have at least a few routes of these!"
Dave Macleod

Alan Cassiday's Comp Report

2009-08-25T06:41:00.000-07:00

Alan Cassiday is a top Scottish Sport climber and competition climber based in North Spain. He is a member of the British Senior Lead Climbing Team and recently achieved a 4th place finnish in the British Lead Climbing Championships (BLCC's), which were held at EICA: Ratho on the 18th & 19th of July earlier this year. In the article below, he gives us a run down of Scottish success stories at both the senior and junior BLCC's and the BBC's (British Bouldering Championships).

Scotland's young climbers' training seems to be paying off at both the British bouldering and leading championships. All the young Scots put in great performances on the day with some very positive climbing and showing of the talent that lies in abundance these days north of the border.

Nat Berry made the smooth transition from Junior to Senior taking the BLCC crown at Ratho with consumate ease. Mutant only just describes Jonny Stocking who did the deed in the junior males at both the BLCC at Ratho and the BBC in Sheffield. He was joined on the podium by another young Johnny, Jonathan Field this time who's training paid off with a fabulous 2nd place in Sheffield and was only denied 3rd place on the BLCC podium by the presence of a foreign vistor in the form of Israeli climber Alon Gurman who took 2nd place.

There is great strength in depth in the junior field with the list. Ellen McCaskill took 4th and 6th at Ratho and Sheffeild respectively and was joined in the EICA: Ratho final by an up-and-coming name; Eleanor Hopkins, a strong tip to take on the mantle of Nat Berry in the future. After less than a year of starting to lead climb she grabbed 6th place. By all accounts both competitions had great showings from all the other Scottish juniors.

In the seniors Ross Kirkland’s battle with qualifying route 2 was great to watch and as young climber continuing to improve the future is getting brighter in the senior competition too. As for the more senior seniors, Roddy Mackenzie put a few demons to rest and got into a well deserved final at Sheffield where he finished 6th and Alan Cassidy surprised himself and many others with his 4th place at EICA: Ratho.
And for those who say "but what have they done outdoors?" the answer is quite a lot really! The highlights (but by no means the only things going on) belong again to Mr Stocking; flashing 8a with Mussel Beach at LPT and working his way through the trad. Onsighting E5 is a doddle E6 has been ticked and the Brandler-Hasse has also been dispatched...the future is in safe hands.

Comp report from - Alan Cassidy British Team Member
Alans sponsors include- Pod Sacs, Metolius & Evolv.

Ifyou would like to read more about Alan's climbing adventures, you can do so through visiting his blog;
http://alancassidyclimbing.blogspot.com/2009/08/on-road.html

If you would like to check out some more images of the recent BLCC's at EICA: Ratho go to http://www.dbm-photo.co.uk/photo3220958.html

European Youth Series - Edinburgh

2009-08-25T05:32:00.000-07:00

EICA: Ratho are all set to hold a round of the International Federation of Sport Climbing - 2009 European Youth Series. Because we are the host nation, our national team are allowed to enter 6 competitors in the each of the 6 age categories. The age categories are as follows; Youth B (year of birth - 1994 & 1995) Youth A (year of birth - 1992 & 1993) Junior (year of birth - 1990 & 1991).
Scottish youth climbing is currently stronger than it has ever been and because of this there will be 12 young Scottish climbers involved in the BMC British Junior Climbing Team at this event.

Two young local climbers in particular have performed exceptionally well at this level over the last few years. Nat Berry (current Senior British Lead Climbing Champion) achieved a 1st place finish in an EYS round in 2007 and also achieved an overall 3rd place finish in that years series. She is in great form at present and will be one to watch out for. Jonathan Stocking (current Junior British Lead Climbing Champion) managed to achieve 3rd place finishes in EYS legs and in the overall series in 2008 (not bad when you consider that he has climbers of the caliber of Adam Ondra in his age category!. He is currently in great shape to build on these results this year.

EICA: Ratho would like to wish the following climbers, along with all the other British Team members, the best of luck in the competition.

Scottish Climbers competing in the Edinburgh - EYS;

Jessica McCaskey
Ellen Macaskill
Nat Berry
Jaime Davidson
Robbie Phillips
Robert MacKenzie
Jonathan Stocking
Ross Kirkland
Paul Williamson
Jonathan Field
Alisdair Johnstone
Steven Addison

If you would like to offer these extremely talented climbers your support over the weekend please come along, with your Scotland flags and cheer them on to glory.

EICA: Ratho would like to thank DBM: Photo for the Image.

Scottish Youth Gunning for Success in World Cup

2009-08-25T05:01:00.001-07:00

This week will see Valence in France host the 2009 Youth World Cup. The top junior climbers from all over the globe will be competing against each other in the difficulty (lead climbing) and Speed Climbing events. The competition is spread over 4 action packed days beginning on Thursday the 27th.

There will be 5 young Scottish climbers representing the British Junior Team at this event, with Jonathan Stocking, Nat Berry, Paul Williamson, Robert MacKenzie and Robbie Phillips. Nat and Jonnie have already managed to achieve 4th place finishes in previous World cups and are in great shape to improve on these results this year. Robert, Robbie and Paul are all in great shape and are tipped to make an impact in the event too.

Everyone at EICA: Ratho would like to wish them the best of luck.

You can keep up to date with the action through a live T.V. link on;
http://www.mineral-spirit.fr/competition/

Results and rankings are available on the International Federation of Sport Climbing web site;
http://www.ifsc-climbing.org/?page_name=home

Thanks to DBM Photo for the image.

Edinburgh's got Talent

2009-08-24T03:43:00.000-07:00
Rachel Carr is a very talented young Edinburgh based climber, who has recently taken the junior competition circut by storm. She has only been climbing for 2 years, but has already made an impact on the national competition circiut, achieving 1st place finshes in the Scotland South Youth Climbing Series(YCS), the Scottish Championships and the British YCS finals. She also recently managed to achieve a 3rd place in the British Team European Youth Championships Trials event and the only thing that prevented her from gaining a slot on the British Team at the Europeans was her age. However, she is well on the way to achieving a slot in the 2010 world cup squad. I recently caught up with her before one of her training sessions and asked for some inside information on how she has become so good.

How long have you been climbing for?
I joined Rocksters in November 2007, but started seriously when I joined BRYCS February 2008.

How did you start climbing?
My mum’s friend Cicci took me climbing and I was apparently really good so I kept going once a week to Rocksters.

Where do you train?
EICA:Ratho mainly, but I also enjoy visiting other walls such as Alien Rock in Edinburgh and Extreme Dream in Aviemore.

You were a gymnast before you started climbing, do you think this helped you?
Yes it’s made me more flexible and also helped me with some balancing skills.

What is the YCS?
Youth Climbing Series, it’s a climbing competition for children age 8 to 16.

Who should try the YCS?
Anyone who thinks they would enjoy it.

You were the 2009 YCS British Champion, how did you prepare in terms of training for this competition?
I went climbing 4 times a week and focused on the type of climbing I expected to be in the competition and built up my strength, I also ate healthily in order to give me more strength.

What is the hardest thing about dealing with climbing competitions?
Probably the fact that you’re not sure how well other people are going to do, and possibly the fact that your competitors are watching you all the time.

Have you ever climbed outdoors? Where?
Yes I’ve been to Malham cove in Yorkshire, Rosyth quarry just outside of Edinburgh and others places with the Quickdraw Climbing Club. I also climbed in Krabi (Thailand) this year as part of our summer holiday.

How does this compare to climbing in doors?
It’s different and can be more technical because it’s not as easy to plan your route.

What future ambitions do you have within the sport?
I would like to make it on to the British team, compete in the Europeans and hopefully the Worlds in 2010.

Do you have any tips for other young climbers that want to improve and do well in competitions?
Focus on doing well yourself and not how others are doing. Don’t be afraid to go for competitions and have fun.

Adam Hughes account of Dolomites Adventure

2009-08-23T08:14:00.000-07:00

Climbers:
Adam ‘Begbie’ Hughes (Hughes Mountaineering)
Neil ‘Geek’ McGeachy (EICA: Ratho)
Jonathan ‘Weegie’ Stocking (British / Scottish Junior climbing Team)

After a conversation with Neil near the end of the winter season about the climbing he has been missing out on by sports climbing and cragging mainly in Britain, we got talking about the dolomites. By the time we had finished we were checking rotas, and had an objective, the Brandler-Hasse on the Cima Grande. At an apparent E5 (7a+) and one of the most sort after routes in the Alps, it was going to be good. After a few weeks talking about the trip we thought that it would be a good opportunity for Johnny to experience something different. Secretly, it was nice to have another rope gun along. This would be the first alpine experience for both of them, and what a place to start. So, the team was set, the goal an exciting and challenging one and training about to start.

Being the weakest link in the trio I was keen to get as fit as possible after a good winter season. Things started well, straight back on E3 to get the head back in gear and ticking 7b+ as the first sport route of the season. I couldn’t have hoped for a better start. Then at the beginning of April I hurt my back very badly. After going through the usual ‘it will be ok in a couple of days’ process it was clear it was going to be a little longer. Long story short, 4 months later, only 10 days cragging under my belt, we where in the Dolomites. Good job the other two are fit.

After driving for two days we decided to get the muscles moving on an easy route and see how we were climbing together as a three. We chose the South Face (Cassin Route) VII- (E2) on the Cima Picola. This is a short route at 300m with some good climbing and excellent situations. The perfect warm up and one I would recommend to people who are thinking of climbing in the Dolomites. All went well, as we moved quickly up the route with only a little bit of grip at the loose bold sections. Even the decent went well with only one minor rope jam in the 6 or so abseils down the rubble filled chimney, Result. Once we had packed the kit away we headed over the shoulder to have a look at the Cima Grande North face. It was just as big as I remembered from my last trip here, and from the look on Neil and Johnny’s faces it was a lot bigger than they had thought. With nervous excitement we were psyched to return tomorrow.

Thursday morning saw a 4 am start and an excited walk around to the route. We were the first people there and got started straight away. We had a mix of topos that I had found on the tinterweb, all of which where not overly clear about the starting two pitches. I started and thought that I had linked the first two pitches and belayed below a good looking pitch, pretty happy to be on the move. The others came up quickly and Neil took over for the next stint. After another pitch and a half the climbing was suddenly much harder than it should have been. Even after mine and Johnny’s helpful comments to push on and man up, Neil was back at the belay. It appeared that we had wandered onto the Super Directissima. A little harder than planned at E7. A quick retreat and a rather bitty chat with another Italian climber and we had the right direction, over there! Very helpful. We headed over there but things still didn’t go to plan. So we bailed, with the view of coming back tomorrow and going the right way, simples.

A less enthusiastic 4 am start and an even less enthusiastic walk back to the route saw us ready to start again. We all felt a little pressure to get up the route and this made things a bit more focused. Armed with a better sense of direction I ran up the first pitch. The second pitch involved easy but bold climbing that went sideways, down, then up. No wonder we got lost. After this things became a lot more obvious. We made very good time, block leading and climbed at the same time as two seconds. After what seemed like a very long E5 already, we arrived at the crux section. Johnny did a sterling effort linking a solid 6b pitch into the first 7a pitch. After some hard sustained climbing he ran out of quick draws short of the belay. This gave us all an atmospheric hanging stance. I took over and did a short section to get us to the main, better belay. From here Neil went into over drive, leading the next three hard pitches. A truly inspiring thing to watch as he power screamed his way though some extremely tiring sections. Things eased off after this but tiredness and frustration at the never ending final sections caused some entertaining mood swings. I earned my keep on the last five or so pitches which took in some bold and less solid climbing to take us to the top. With not much daylight left, cloud coming in fast, we needing to descend quickly. This proved to be a bit difficult. It appeared that only one of us had remembered to bring a head torch. We managed to descend the abseils with the help of a French couple, but with no head torches the down climb sections were too dangerous. This was the first time I have been benighted, and hopefully the last. After a very long and cold night with much manly hugging to keep warm, the light came back and we could pick our way down the descent. By 7am we had made it back to the car and could finally get some food, but what an experience.

After a rest day and some fishing we decided to leave Italy and head to Austria. Johnny has the world cup coming up and needs to do some hard sports climbing to train. He had heard about a valley called Zillertal near Innsbruck, so off we went. It was a Sunday when we drove over, thinking that this popular tourist valley would have many tourist info office to help point us in the right direction. NO! It would appear that they don’t do Sunday. After driving around for about three hours looking for crags in this Austrian Mecca of granite sports climbing we decided that another rest day was not the worst thing. Next day we had more luck at the tourist info, but no luck at the climbing shop. Looking through the window we could see all the guide books on the desk, but the shop only opens 3pm to 6pm (what is that all about). More frustration and pastries later, we were 30 euros down but new where we headed. I have forgotten to mention that it also appears to rain all the time in Zillertal. So, having found some steep looking crags in Ginzling, we finally got on some rock. The climbing was awesome. Due to everywhere being mostly wet, even though the weather improved as the week went on we climbing in Ginzling the whole time. This was no bad thing. There are many sectors, but we where based in the Bergstation. Sector By The Way provided some good routes to warm up on, as well as breaking up the trudge up the hill to sector Sterne. Despite the climbing being very burly and bouldery, we all enjoyed it. Johnny flashed a hard 7c I was working and made very short work of his first 8a+. Neil made a quick ascent of 7c and worked a number of harder climbs. I even managed to on sight a hard 7a+, which felt like something special after the preparation I hadn’t had for the trip. The final day climbing before the drive back saw us doing a little bouldering. With no mats and some bad landing we didn’t push things out. It only when you climb on the boulders you can see how this would help on the routes, a good way to get used to the rock and climbing style.

Overall, a successful trip with some excellent climbing in fantastic setting. Defiantly recommended.

Thanks to my sponsors Edelrid for great kit.

Warm Up Tips for Young Climbers

2009-08-23T08:08:00.000-07:00

Hi guys, Recently I have been very impressed to see that many of the BRYCS kids have been making the effort to come in and put some additional training in away from the club. This is awsome, as climbing more than 1 day a week is only gonna help your over all development as climbers. Just thought I would use this forum to offer some basic tips on training that might help you on your way to rock stardom.

Tip number 1: WARMING UP AND WARMING DOWN!

This is the single most important thing to get right with your training, as failure to do it correctly may result in poor performance, longer recovery time between sessions or even worse injury! Remember kiddies if you can touch your toes, how are you gonna tie your rock boots up? Just ask Billy boy, he has been forced to climb in slippers for years coz he didn't stretch as kiddie!

Warming up is not something you should rush, it takes me between 25 and 30 minutes to warm up properly before I train. I ease my self in gently and concentrate on slowly getting my body and brain prepared for what it is going to be doing when I climb. Coming in and jumping straight on to a steep boulder is a bad plan of action and may result in your head exploding (OK that's a bit of an fib, but it could result in strained fingers or other climbing related injuries).

Three important stages of warming up;
1. Cardio Vascular- Before you do anything, you have to raise your heart rate. It is important that you get the blood pumping round you muscles and also warm up your body. You don't have to run a half marathon, but running round the arena a few times or running up and down the stairs a few times would be a good idea.

2. Climbing Specific- This stage should involve super easy climbing and it serves the purpose of warming up all of the exact climbing muscles you are gonna be using. It also gets your brain working and ready to climb. The key is to ensure that the climbing you do here is super EASY. Traversing the bottom of the lead or top rope wall is a perfect way to do this. Another good tip is to concentrate on your technique and footwork during this stage. Thinking hard about transferring your weight over footholds and being very precise with your feet. If you start a session concentrating on climbing well, then you are more likely to continue this throughout the rest of your session.

3. Flexibility - Basic mobility exercises are the third and final part of the 3 main warm up stages. You all know lots of good climbing related warm up exercises. Think about every different part of your body you use to climb and do an exercise for it. Include exercises like arm swings, leg kicks, jumping and hopping on the spot etc. These will help warm up your joints and muscles through a full range of movements.

These stages are written in this order for a reason. You should try and avoid stretching or working flexibility before you have raised your heart rate or carried out some easy climbing. Stretching when your muscles/joints are still cold increases chance of hurting yourself when you are doing it. Finally, you have to note that the warm up doesn't stop there! you have to then gradually ease yourself into routes or bouldering. Don't just jump straight on a 7a or a grade 6 boulder problem. Start on a 4+ then work up to your 7a attempt.

WARMING DOWN is just as important as warming up, but it doesn't take quite as long. I spend 5 minutes doing easy boulder problems, traversing or very easy routes. I then finish off carrying out a full stretching routine. Making the effort to warm down will help your body wind down after a session and will speed up the time it takes your muscles to recover after a session. Remember guys flexibility is a huge part of being a top climber, so stretching is an important part of your training! The warm down is the perfect time to focus on this!

Hope this helps and keep up the hard work guys!

Improve your Foot work

2009-08-23T08:05:00.000-07:00

The first and must important part of achieving good climbing technique is learning to use our feet effectively. We hear lots of people saying certain climbers have good footwork, but what does it actually mean?

In my opinion the two most important factors of good footwork are;
1.) Being able to place your feet quickly and precisely.
2.) Being able to transfer your weight over your feet.

1.) Be quick and precise:
When we are placing our feet we should be aiming to use the front of our rock boot as much as possible. This means the inside edge, outside edge and the front point! This allows us to be precise with our foot placements when standing on smaller holds, allows us to twist and turn when climbing by simply pivoting on our feet, and minimises the chance of our feet slipping off.
Using this part of our feet also allows us to gain more force and height from the foot placement. Think about how your foot works when jumping, you flex your feet and push off from your toes. Its the same principle when flexing your foot to stretch for a distant climbing hold or flexing your foot when powering up for that dyno! Obviously, we also have to learn when it is appropriate to heel hook or toe hook (usually of very steep ground), but the majority of foot placements should be made as above.

How do we improve this?
It may sound simple, but looking at your feet when you place them helps. Make a conscious effort to look at the foot hold, and place your foot exactly where you are looking. If you are clumping around with your feet, banging them off the wall each time you place them or hoping about on a foot hold to readjust, you are wasting valuable energy when you climb. The easiest way I have found to practise this is to think really hard about it when you are climbing easy warm up climbs, slow down and really concentrate on placing your feet quietly in control. As you improve at this, begin to attempt climbing these routes quicker, but still be precise and controlled with your feet placements. Over time this will improve your footwork on all of your climbs. Another training tip I have for improving this is to attempt climbing boulder problems in the EICA: Ratho arena using features only for feet. This will help you learn how to trust standing on small holds, it will help you improve your judgement with foothold selection and it will also help build up core strength as keeping your feet on small holds when climbing steeper problems requires a lot of body tension!.

2.) Transferring your weight over your feet:
Spend time during your next session watching a really good climber on a route up our main lead wall. As they move up the wall you will see them transfer their body from side to side or twist their whole body each time they reach for a hold! The climber is doing this so that they can move their weight over the foot that they are pushing off, thus moving in the most efficient way. If your weight is over your foot when you push up on it, you use far less pulling energy in your arms! A really good climber to observe doing this is Nat Berry, as she is phenomenal at this technique in climbing. Her amazing level of flexibility in her hips, allows her to transfer her weight over any foothold regardless of how awkwardly placed they are!

How do we improve this? This is a really important skill to master, as the whole point of good technique is 'minimising the amount of energy used in our arms' ! The less energy we use in our arms, the longer we can climb on a route before we get tired. Learning to transfer our weight over our feet makes us more efficient at how we use our feet and reduces the strain on our arms, thus making us more technical climbers.
The best way I have found to practise this technique is to spend time on the slab areas in the wall. Practice climbing the routes with one hand, but really concentrate on getting the upward motion from your legs!. If you have to pull with your hand to make a move, stop and think about your feet and body position, then try again. Once you have mastered this, make things harder for yourself by attempting these climbs with no hands. You can place your hands flat against the wall, but you are not allowed to touch any of the holds. It is impossible to achieve this without transferring your weight over your feet!

Finally start experimenting with how we can use twisting to help us transfer our weight over our feet. Again use the slab area to begin with. Force yourself to only use the outside edge of your climbing shoe, in order to do this you will have to twist your whole body round each time you stand up on a foot. An easy way to think about it is to say to yourself - 'if I am standing up on my right foot I have to twist to face left, if i am standing up on my left foot I have to twist to face the right'!

Spend a bit of time each session concentrating on practising good footwork and you will become very good at using your feet. Remember, there is more to being good at climbing than just getting fitter and stronger! If we don't move well when we are climbing we are not going to climb to our full potential!

Youth Rock Jock Corner

2009-08-23T07:45:00.000-07:00
Hi guyz,
As you can see Ratho Coach Robbie Philips has been offering some awesome training tips and motivation for training and using our facilities to improve your climbing and fitness. Please beware though that many training techniques for experienced adult climbers are not always suitable for younger climbers wanting to improve their fitness levels! We at EICA: Ratho strongly advise that any climbers under the age of 18 years avoid using footless training aids such as Campus boards or finger boards (i.e. Beastmakers) within their training. Training on these aparatus put tremendious amounts of strain on your joints, in particular your fingers, elbows and shoulders. Training like this when your body is still growing and developing at a fast rate can have serious consequencies! These sorts of training are best left until you have stopped growing and have already built up a wealth of time climbing.

The cave

2009-08-15T14:52:00.000-07:00
The past couple of weeks has been a great turnover for the Boulder cave, with new problems being set nearly every day, from V0 to V9 at the moment theres plenty to go at! Yesterday I had two and a half hours at the end of the day dedicated to setting and in that time managed to produce some more quality problems for your climbing pleasure. On the Slab by the office we have a new V4/5 Tan problem. It consists of a delicate start on sloping crimps to a high rock over and a double dyno slap to a positive sloper! WICKED! On the Pillar there's a new V5 Black problem. A fine and balancy arete heads into the jutting overhang roof with a finger jug and sloper round the lip, from here you can be technical and use some cunning toe hooks or be a beast and campus for the final hold (Not a jug really?). On the mantel shelf board there are two new problems! A technical and balancy arete (Tan V2) all the way to the top with some very challenging sequences... make sure those hands are on the right holds... And a new black V5 that traverses the mantel lip and into the mantelshelf itself. This should grade at around V5 but turning the lip of the overhang from the mantelself proved very tricky for me, maybe with some new beta It might be easier? Also on the back wall there is a new ripple V3 traverse and a new V6 Orange crimp fest cuortesy of Lisandro! On the v-board, I worked yet more problems onto it, a new V5 (White) heading up the prow with some very sneaky beta coming up on video after it's seen a bit more action. Finally, a new purple V2 and grey V1 as well. Watch the last move of the grey...

And now the 45 board has finally been reset! Buz and I had a long chat about how to reset it, should we set problems for people to lap or should we just cover the wall with holds like a normal circuit board. In the end we covered the wall with loads of different holds in different positions to provide every possible movement from every possible hold to provide the best training board for circuits and bouldering that we could manage. I think it turned out rather well. I'm going to go over all the grid numbers on the Y and X-axis of the board so that we can easily plot problems and circuits on it. For everyonese use there will be a folder with all the circuits and problems in it listed by grade and the public will have the opportunity to add to this if they like, although if you are adding to it, make sure it's a good one ; P

In my opinion this way of setting up the 45 board is the best. It's the way all major Walls have set their circuit boards and it's the way all the top climbers have their boards, so why not on the worlds largest climbing wall, should we not have a board luke this (if only it was a real 45 board).

Also, forgot to mention. Anyone who likes aretes? Try the new tan arête on the right hand side of the 45 board, there's no particular sequence, whatever works for you?

Circuits? What are those?

2009-08-13T06:54:00.000-07:00
Hey guys!

More news from the routesetting front. Soon to be stripped and set is the "45" board in the cave. A long awaited change is coming to fruition and soon we will have a brand new set of problem laps and circuits for your power-endurance pleasure. What is that you say? Power-Endurance? Power-Endurance is one of the most misunderstood form of climbing training. It is (in a very basic explanation) the transition between power and enurance and is an essential key to improving your overall performance on the rock. Primarily it is more essential for route climbers than boulderers although for those seeking longer and more sustained problems, theres no harm in training it. The best way to train it (personally) is by climbing circuits or doing problem reps (laps). The "45" board in the cave is the best wall for this at ratho and this is why we tailor all the problems on it to suit this specific type of training. Every problem on the board has a twin next to it. They are not always identical but they range around the same difficulty. As well as that there are also a few easier jug lines to allow easier downclimbing if necessary. The board is also fitted with loads of screw-ons if you wish to make it harder for yourself (use them for your feet). The problems vary in length from between 8 and 12 moves, coupled with downclimbing you can make a full up and down rep into a healthy 18 moves on average. I usually (if training on "45" board) will rep (up and down) on one colour and the move on to the next e.g.

1) Up Purple V6
2) Down Purple (Twin) V6
3) Up Tan V5
4) Down Tan (Twin) V5

That is a good set! And you should want to make your tailored to yuor specific needs my allowing it to be hard enough to make the final moves but not always complete it. Until you can safely complete every set every time, you should not increase the difficulty too much. Power endurance is very personal and it must be specific to you. I would class this training as circuits. You can also make your own circuits up using any holds (that is sometimes better). Problem Reps involve choosing a problem that you can finish (between 8 and 12 moves) and repping it 4 times max. On the final 2 reps you should be falling at the top. As soon as you can rep it seuccesfully every time you can change it. Why not simply tweak one of the holds in it to make it only a little harder? Each rep should include a one minute rest (it is essential to use a stopwatch otherwise the results become to scattered and varied.

When it comes to Power-Endurance, it is essential that you don't climb to total failure. Sessions should be short and sweet. At home (www.robbiesboardofbeasts.blogspot.com) my sessions last between an hour and two hours. Not long at all really and the sessions are always the same...

1) Warm up
2) 1st circuit (3 x sets)
3) 2nd circuit (3 x sets)
4) 3rd circuit (3 x sets)
5) Finish (maybe a beastmaker session depending on how i feel)

So why not try this for a while and see where it takes you? There is plenty of literature online about this and once you get stuck into it, its really quite fun.

Apart from all that training talk, I have also set two new routes on the main wall. There is a new giant pink jug fest (6a-6bish) and a new 7b/+ (blue) which is really wuite technical and sequncy on small holds and foot holds!

Go for it!!!

ROBZ OUT

An Argentinian Touch

2009-08-09T03:46:00.000-07:00
Our new pal from the southern-western country of argentena has been on the boulder setting business of late. He's been in the cave and has designed some righteous new problems on the v-board! There are two new yellow problems and a red and orange. The grades look to be as follows:

1) yellow (right) = v6
2) yellow (left) = v2
3) orange = v4
4) red = v5

these are just guesses right now so have a go on them and tell us what u think?

I have also been on the v-board setting. My new problems are the blue and green. Blue goes at around v1/2 and the green should get a nice and healthy v5/6.
And right this second I just finished setting what I think will be the cave project hopefully... The new pink... Grade??? Could be v6 or even v9? We will see, it needs to see some action people, don't dissaooint...

Also, I've been seeing some neat variations going on in the cave too... For those that are interested, why not try the start of the pink on the mantel shelf into the yellow mantel shelf problem and instead of making the move static to the lip, do a double dyno!!! Also, try doing the yellow mantel without traversing and just go direct, FA goes to Lisandro, a sweet problem.

Anyway, tell us what you think, if you are enjoying the route setting telll us, same goes if you are not impressed, tell us what you think we need more of and we will see what we can do ; p

rob out

My Plans!!!

2009-08-06T14:50:00.000-07:00
The Route setting at Ratho has got a bit lax these days... We plan to change that for good! It has been really difficult to get the time to set routes and boulders so don't get upset at us when there has been no new climbing in a while (we try our best). But hopefully now, that is all gonna change!!! Mhairi and I have been given hours every week to set now so there's gonna be a lot of turnover hopefully. My plan is to strip 1/5 of the bouldering every week so we get a good turnover of boulder problems lasting around 5 weeks for every problem. 1/5 of the bouldering will run as so:

Week 1: Barell Boulder
Week 2: Slab Boulder
Week 3: 45 Boulder
Week 4: 1/2 of the Boulder cave
Week 5: 1/2 of the Boulder cave

What do you think boulderers?

And 2 days a week we will strip route lines and set new fantastic routes of every grade!!!! At the moment we are working on the Justice Wall but we are moving further right. We are hoping to strip the slab wall very soon too and with that we will open up a variety of new fantastically shaped entreprise holds which in my opinion are being wasted on 3's and 4's with no obvious movement to them (they are just a line of holds basically).

Today I spent every spare minute I had stripping the back wall of the Boulder cave and setting on it. There still needs to be a few more easier problems within the V1-V5 range set but there are a bunch of classics set on it for rour enjoyment right now.

1) White (R) = V1
2) White (L) = V5
3) Pink = V3
4) Blue = V7/8
5) Green = V6/E6
6) Grey = V4

And the problems on the Mantel shelf board side are:

1) Yellow (mantel) = V3
2) Pink = V2
3) White (mantel) = V6
4) White = V0
5) Red = V5
6) Purple = V4
7) Green = V6
8) Grey = V5
9) Blue = V2

ENJOY!!!

A New Age!!!

2009-08-04T12:02:00.000-07:00
The Age of Setting has begun anew...

A new day, a new set of problems! Today Mhairi had 3 hours of routesetting time, so she got on the boulder caves case! She stripped the whole Mantel shelf board section of wall and set a bunch of new problems too! I set some on my break (Green, Pink, Blue) and Mhairi set the 2 x whites, Purple and Red...

This is me on my new Blue boulder on the Pillar in the Boulder cave. A little bit different, it requires... lets just say... that je ne se quoi they call DYNAMIC POWER!!!

They all look totally awesome! Heres a video taken today of Callum Forsyth (Our youngest Ratho Instructor at 16 years of age! He's also one bad ass climber setting the standard at 7c Redpoint and 7b onsight!!!) climbing my new blue V1. Watch out for the sneaky footholds out right to stay in balance... ; P

Here's Callum again making short work of the new Pink I set today as well (V3ish???)

2009-08-03T06:20:00.000-07:00
So today, Buz was on the Spider setting new routes! We have a brand new 6a+ White on the new comp wall (which is pretty amazing considering its all mega overhanging (Davy and Alan got up it so it can't be that hard ;P ). We have a brand new Red 7b on the Justice Wall (main Wall where the pantarai sign is). This route is awesomely crimpy but has some good jugs on it too for rest positions. Nice and pumpy... just what you want on that wall! I also did my Yellow on the same wall today which in my honest opinion was more like 7b+, all the moves are really cool, theres lots of variety in the movement, holds and angle which i reckon makes a damn good route! I also made the FA of my new 8a (Flash... if you can call it that after you set it?). I'm gonna name it "Crmpy Crimperson"... because of all the slopers of course (Joke). It really was a cool route, I think its maybe 7c+/8a but its really nice regardless. All the holds are really positive and all it requires in good endurance on small positive crimps and the ability to recover well on small open handed slopers (the best rest points are on smallish sloping holds). You should all get on it, I reckon 7b until the half way chain...
I also set two new problems in the Cave the other day, probably both about V5? They are both situated on the Pillar and have some seriously sick moves on them. The Blue has an amazing double dyno to two positve pinches and the white has an wicked double toe hook which you have to match your hands on as well to gain the final move....

SICK!!!

ROBZ OUT

BETA VID'S

2009-08-02T13:50:00.000-07:00
So the new yellow has been certified as 7b+. The new Green has been certified as 7c+/8a by myself and Miss Berry (natalie) and I quote "It was really cool" : P

Here's a picture of the finale crux's of the two new routes!

But right now, for your viewing pleasure, I have some beta tips from the one and only Paul "Where did my armspan go?" Williamson (British Junior Team Member). Young Paul here,

is 15, sponsored by 5.10, he is wearing 5.10 Dragons and is beasting up these classic Ratho boulder problems set by our quality routesetting team!!! In this video we watch Paul sending the classic white roof boulder (V5ish). Watch his crazy roof technique through the crux, that sequence was shown to me by one of Ratho's young talents (Eleanor "could probably hang an atom" Hopkins, British Junior Team Aspirant).

In this next video, we see Paul showing us how to send the Grey V5 on the 45 Feature boulder. Watch his good use of feet through the crux and the final moves, this is essential for the send!!!

And finally, the evr elusive Yellow V6!!! This has seen many a victim with its thrutchy moves and body tension needed start, but there is always a sequence that works, and paul seems to have found his own... Will it work for you?

More Beta vids on there way!!!

ROBZ OUT

New Routes

2009-08-01T07:47:00.000-07:00
Hey guys!

I got some time (first time in ages!!!) for some route setting on Friday! I stripped the main wall (where the Pantarai sign is, also known as the "Justice wall") and set a new yellow 7b (with some well cool moves on it) and a new Green 7c+/8a.

The yellow 7b makes good use of the featured panel to the start (watch for featured feet and hands at this point) as well as the overhang feature to the left of the Justice wall! It gradually gets harder towards the final moves where it thins out slightly and finishes with subtle movements on balancy ground with small features on either side for good foot placements! Make sure you have enough left to clip the chain!!!

The Green is currently not officially graded yet. It may be 8a but i'm not 100%. It has been set to hopefully replace the old terracotta that went up the same line. I set the route as a personal challenge. You will notice that the route has very small crimpy holds on it, and seems to be very endurancy without much rest. This is not my fortay and I usually prefer to set with bigger holds and more interesting technical moves that flow from side to side but setting this was going to be a challenge so I went for it! the route is straight up and nearly every hold is incut (but only slightly). It will be very difficult to get any form of rest on the entire route without crimping and apart from one foothold at the top, every hold you will use for your feet will also be used for your hands so make sure you look for those features and work on your highstepping because you'll need it. This will be the ultimate endurance workout for those working in the 7c and up region and I advice even those working in the grades below that to try the first half which will no doubt give your fingers a good test and may even work out a good 7b tick...

Happy Crankin' everyone!!!

ROBZ

New Blog!!!

2009-07-23T06:07:00.000-07:00
Hey guys!!!

Check out my new blog I just started!!!

www.robbiesboardofbeasts.blogspot.com

This blog is my official blog and the official blog of "The Board" i.e. my board at my house where I train when i'm not at Ratho...

New Training Programme!!!

2009-07-22T03:56:00.000-07:00
Hey Everyone...

Just thought i would show you guys if your interested, my new training programme. I've been following it for the past few weeks now and its going well. I am in love with the Beastmaker fingerboard (www.beastmaker.co.uk).

This fingerboard is the epitemy of training utilities. I would say that even without a board, using this training tool would make you into a real beast. Now remember everyone, fingerboards are an amzing training tool but they are also very dangerous for those unexperienced with them (actually, they are more dangerous for people who are experienced with them). The idea of a fingerboard is to develop finger and tendon strength by performing various exercises hanging on your fingertips.

My favourite exercise at the moment are called Repeaters. I learned these from ned Feehally and Dan Varians website (www.beastmaker.co.uk) and Eric Horst (world famous climbing coach) site (www.nicros.com/training.cfm).

Repeaters involve doing 7 repetitions of 7 second hangs on a hold, where in between each individual hang you rest for between 2 and 5 seconds. I rest for 2 out of prefernce as I want as little rest as possible, but the rest is essential as it allows blood to flow back into your forearms to create a more realistic sense of climbing movement. One set for me would be:

1)Hang 7 secs
2)rest 2 secs
3)Hang 7 secs
4)Rest 2 secs
5)Hang 7 secs
6)Rest 2 secs
7)Hang 7 secs
8)Rest 2 secs
9)Hang 7 secs
10)Rest 2 secs
11)Hang 7 secs
12)Rest 2 secs
13)Hang 7 secs
14)Rest 2 minutes
15) Next set

This set although not seeming very much actually leaves you with a really good feeling of a power-endurance based forearm pump, similar to what you would feel doing a long sustained boulder problem or short sustained route.

This is a very basic representation of my weekly training schedule:

Monday (Power-Endurance)
Tuesday (BM)
Wednesday (Power)
Thursday (Stamina)
Friday (Rest)
Saturday (Power-Endurance)
Sunday (BM)

Power Endurance

• 3 x sets of Circuits (3 x reps per circuit)
• Beastmaker (Max Strength Hangs + One Arm Pull Ups)

Power

• 1 x hour of Bouldering (Maximum Intensity)
• Beastmaker (Repeaters + One Arm Pull Ups)

Stamina

• 3 x sets of Laps (3 x routes per set) (1 x set can be swapped for 2 or 3 x max on-sights or red-points)
• Beastmaker (Max Strength Hangs + One Arm Pull Ups)

Beastmaker (Maximum Strength Hangs)

• 5 x 45° Slopers
• 5 x 2 Fngr Dish (Mid 2)
• 5 x Shallow Pocket (Front 2)
• 5 x Mono (Mid 1)

Beastmaker (Repeaters)

• Mini-rungs/F3 (2 sets)
• Mini-rungs/B3 (2 sets)
• Mini-rungs/½ Crimp (2 sets)

• Shallow Pockets/M2 (2 sets)
• Deep Pockets/F2 (2 sets)
• Very Deep Pockets/B2 (2 sets)

Beastmaker (One Arm Pull Ups)

• Middle Large-rung (2 sets)(-4kg)
• Middle Large-rung (1 set)(-2kg)
• Middle Large-rung (1 set)

If you have any questions regarding this training, you can contact me on:

meteora_9115@hotmail.com

I will be posting up more training article soon enough, next issue will be on Power-endurance training on a bouldering wall (circuits and problem reps)

ROBZ OUT

PICTURES FROM SPAIN!!!

2009-07-14T06:43:00.000-07:00
Crazy Jungle Tufa Madness!!!

No-hands rests are very common on steep spanish limestone sport routes (Rodellar is famous for them, be sure to work on that core strength...)

Tufa technique is very tricky, especially if your used to pulling on plastic at the gym. In my opinion, its a little like crack climbing... it requires the same awkward and diverse techniques yet its geological structure is the complete opposite???
The best part of climbing trips... Meeting new friends...

Rodellar (Robbie's Trip)

2009-06-22T06:02:00.000-07:00
Hey Everyone!!!

Had an awesome time in Spain. I was climbing in an amzing crag called Rodellar where there are massive caves of up to 100m in height. The first few days where amazing, the temperatures where a bit hot but i was still managing to crush all the 8 grade routes into the ground. I tried an 8b called Gladiator which i did every move on my first go and linked it in two parts. On my third attempt i fell after the crux and was sure it would go next attempt. unfortunately the weather got really hot very quickly and it was impossible to climb anything really hard, a real bummer as me and Stefan (My dutch friend i was climbing with) where feeling really strong. We still managed to have a god time though. There was an excellent scene at the refugio and the surrounding campsites and we made lots of new friends from all over the world, from as far as Australia and Israel to Germany and the States. I got to climb with loads of cool people and discovered yet more about my climbing than i've ever done before. I have found out over the past years that trips are the perfect way to identify weaknesses in you climbing and then when you return to normality and the gym, you can iron them out with more hard training so you'll be ready for crushing on your next trip. I discovered that my endurance is pretty damn good yet my power endurance and finger strength could definitely be improved. From talking to lots of different people, you can identify areas in your climbing which need to be improved. Try talking to climbers who are much better than you and who have much more experience and maybe you will discover something new to improve on. Remember that training has to be technical as well as physical. If you improve technically too then you can only get better. I am going to work on improving my speed and efficiency on the wall and to do that i will start moving faster when i'm training and working on my reaction time while onsightin hard routes.

Anyway, hope you liked the post...

C u all at ratho

ROBZ

P.s. Pictures are to come very soon... : P

'Malham-itis'

2009-05-30T02:05:00.000-07:00
On the 16th and 17th May EICA: Ratho coaches Neil McGeachy and Neill Busby ran a trip to the sport climbing Mecca of Malham Cove for Scotland South British/Scottish Junior Team members. For all of the kids, this was their first trip to a crag notorious for fiercely technical routes that are almost always hard for the grade!

Over the two days the young climbers tested footwork and route reading skills on a selection of routes and after a bit of time adjusting to the new challenges of climbing outdoors, they soon started ticking of some of the classics the crag has to offer.

Rachel Carr made a highly impressive sport climbing debut , managing to on-sight 'Begozzi and the Ledge Lizzards' 6A+ as well as top roping a selection of 6C's and 7A's. Callum Forsyth also made an impressive start to his sport climbing career, by top roping a selection of classic routes from 7A - 7B. Eleanor Hopkins was on fire as always making swift work of red-pointing 'Frankenstein' 7A+/B, as well as top roping a selection of other 7A & 7A+'s. Jonny Field carried on from a successful debut season to outdoor sport climbing last year, with numerous on sights of 7A+'s & 7B's including 'Yosemite Wall', '7th Aardvark' and 'Something Stupid'.

As a climber and coach, I was truly blown away by how easily the young climbers transferred their indoor climbing skills to real rock with such ease. Especially at a Crag as technical as Malham Cove!

After the weekend crowds had dispersed and the youth had returned home to the joys of exams, Buzz and myself hung around for some more Malham action. We spent the first day on the upper tier where we red-pointed 'L'obsession' 7C+ and 'Toadal Re-Call' 8A, both of which were extremely good quality and well worth seeking out. On the second day we stayed on the cat walk and used our time ticking some classics such as 'Tremalo' 7C, and some not so classics, such as 'Just not in Lust' 7C, 'Angel Gabriella' 7B+.

Despite the terrible weather and huge crowds at the crag, a fun and productive trip was had by all. If you have not been to Malham before, get your ass down there as it is without a doubt the best sport climbing crag in the UK!!!!!!! Plus it has the added advantage of staying dry in even the heaviest downpour!

Helpful advice

2009-05-29T02:36:00.000-07:00
make the most out of your day at the crag

no pain no gain

Finding a belay can be tricky sometimes

Smile for the camera

Its important to maintain flexability

Dressing up like Rod Stewart makes you crank harder

duct tape is useful in many situations

Always campus on steep ground

Quickdraw club at Blackford Quarry

2009-05-23T13:35:00.001-07:00

Today Martin and I were at Blackford Quarry with the perants of the Quickdraw Club. The objective was to look at top roping as a follow on from the bottom roping of the previous sessions. We started rigging so they were out of the system and using Italian hitches, an all new concept for all but one. After using these to do a little climbing, we moved on to put themselve into the system. This will lead into things later in their program. This went well, building nicely on the new skills they had all remembered well from the last session. Overall, another very productive session.

The weather was nice too!

http://www.quickdrawclimbingclub.com/

Gordale, by Mhairi

2009-05-15T06:26:00.000-07:00
McGeek, Greg, Damien, Pamela and I all went to Gordale on Monday. The Ratho crew (apart from Damien) had the crag to ourselves which was awesome. McGeek got straight on Huecool (8b) and had a few goes working out the moves. Looks like he will get it soon. Greg got on a "classic" 7b+ called Revival and managed to pull of LOADS of holds. He decided that it wasnt that classic and therefore ditched it altogether. Damien and I did a really short 7b called Last Dog, but it packed in the moves and was really good fun. Pamela redpointed a 6a on the other side of the crag and she was pretty chuffed.

Day 2 - McGeek and Pam did some funky trad stuff which looked good fun whist Damo Greg and I put a rope up Dog Point 7b+/7c. We worked it on a top rope and are psyched to get back next week for some redpointing action! McGeek had a few more goes on Huecool and thinks a couple of days work will do the trick. He's a machine!

It was my first time at Gordale, thought it was an awesome crag, well worth a visit and a good wee trip overall.

Laterz

Mhairi

NEW HOLDS!!!!

2009-05-14T15:32:00.000-07:00
We have just gone and purchased around 1.5 tonnes of new holds from a new climbing hold company called CORE. They are all in white as we don't have many in that colour. Master Buzby (Head Route Setter) and the rest of the team are pretty psyched by these holds. They seem very friendly on the skin (good for training on) and there is a lot of variety in shapes and type of hold (crimp, jug, sloper, etc). So far we have set 2 x 5's, 1 x 6a, 1 x V4 and 1 x V8. Climb the new routes and tell us what you think of them. Also for those who are wondering, we are on a mission to complete the top-rope wall and fit it full of fantastic, fun new routes and then we will be ready for the main lead wall.

Also new to Ratho is the introduction of some of Scott Muirs interesting new real rock holds (Dream Holds). We have set a number of routes with these as well varying from 5 - 7a. Tell us what you think of these too. They are meant to resemble the texture and quality of Grit, Sandstone, Gneiss and Gabbro (common rock types found throughout the UK).

Catch everyone later...

ROBZ

Team Trials Domination

2009-05-13T00:40:00.000-07:00

Last weekend EICA: Ratho hosted the British Team Trials (the event to pick the future youth climbers for the Edinburgh Europen Cup). The event was dominated largely by us Scots. In the Youth C Female category we had the top 3 positions! Eleanor Hopkins was the victor in the end with a very strong performance, showing us all just what hard work and determination can do. A super final seperated Eleanor and Nikki Addison (Scotland North) which Rachael "The Beast" Carr missed out ony by points. In the Youth C Boys, Dylan Mckenzie held a strong and very "different" performance to secure his 3rd place. It was different as he dsplayed his amazing use of the figure of four technique to complete his second route : P

Female Youth B saw the famous Jaime Davidson crush her way into 4th place, again missing out by points to secure a superfnal position. Male Yout B saw the young Ice Champion Stevie Addison fight his way to 6th place, a respectable position and i'm sure we will see a lot more to come from this promising young climber (especially towards the Ice!!!)

Female Youth A saw Ellen Mcaskill float her way to 4th position with some very nice climbing on the new wall while drifting in only one position behind was Edinburgh local and Alien Rock fanatic Jessica Mcaskey!!! Male Youth A as always was the strongest competition with 6 British Team Member fighting for 1st place and as usual, on top came Jonathan Stocking seemingly floating up the routes (what is this kid on?). Coming on a very close 2nd place was Ross Kirkland who on the final route looked like he simply could not fall off!!! In 4th we had Paul "Sharma" Williamson and in 6th place came Edinburgh local and fellow Watsonian Jonathan Field!!! Lets not forget though... everyones favourite, CALUM FORSYTH!!! The young ratho prodigy who will one day be ripping the place apart no doubt came a very respectable 9th place, especially considering the competition. I would just like to input that Calum onsighted his first 7b/+ the other day at Ratho showing us just what he's capable of if he remembers the sequence :P

In Female Junior we had no competitors but in Male Juniors "I" (Robbie Phillips) got 1st place followed by Connor Robertson (fellow watsonian and Alien Rock Freak) who undoubtedly could crush any moves on any of the routes single handedly... if only he had the stamina to do more than 3 moves :P "Get of the boulders Connor and onto the routes!!!"

Thats all from the Team Trials for now...

The BLCC's are the next British Competition Event and will be being held at EICA: Ratho on the 18th and 19th of July. Applications are on the BMC website,
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2540
everyone should give it a go (even for a laugh, its great fun).

I will be competing in the Seniors so I look forward to seeing you all there!!!

ROBZ

P.s. I would just like to thank Will Carroll (fellow Ratho climber) for the fantastic photos.

2009-05-08T02:34:00.000-07:00

NEW FUN RAFFLE/COMPETITION STYLE EVENT HAPPENING AT RATHO

2009-05-08T00:31:00.000-07:00
Just starting at Ratho within the next week or so, there will be tick lists available at reception and from the arena notice board. The tick lists are designed to show climbers of varying levels a selection of Ratho's best routes of the grade. Not only is it a tick list, its also a ticket for a raffle that will be held every month. By completing the tick list (signature of belayer needed next to every climb)you can then hand it in to reception and get the chance to win some cool prizes. More information to come later in the week...

ROBZ

ta for the invite

2009-05-07T09:26:00.000-07:00
now i will have to go and do some interesting stuff to put on here?

NEW BLOG!!!

2009-05-07T05:35:00.000-07:00
WELCOME TO EICA: RATHO'S NEW BLOG!!!

Hawkcraigs

2009-05-03T06:32:00.000-07:00
Today Martin and I were at the Hawkcraigs with folks from the Quickdraw Climbing Club. The aim of the day was to give the kids an opportunity to climb outside and experience a range of route types, whilst the parents got the chance to see and discuss the rigging that was set up. This made a good follow up to yesterday. Everyone had the chance to try a range of climbs from VDiff to HVS. Most of the climbs gave the group a different challenge than they would get at the wall, Cracks being the hardest. These days are going to be a great way for all involved to experience more of the sport and help improve their all round skill level.To find out more about the click on the link below.

http://www.quickdrawclimbingclub.com/